Charcuterie_ The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing - Michael Ruhlman [144]
jowl fat, 106
Kaminsky, Peter, 196
kettle grill, smoking foods on, 75, 76–77
kielbasa, 22, 115
smoked, 163–164
wiejska (with marjoram), Brian’s holiday, 118–119
KitchenAid mixer, with grinder attachment, 25, 28, 112
KitchenAid sausage stuffer, 28
knackwurst, 113, 115, 153–154
knives, for slicing bacon, 41
Kummer, Corby, 21
Kurlansky, Mark, 30
lactic acid
for dry-curing, 179
pickling and, 68
Lactobacillus, pickling by fermentation and, 68
lamb
shoulder, in Merguez, 129–130
sources for, 302
landjager, 194–195
lard, 33
in duck confit
with clove, 259–260
with star anise and ginger, 261
in goose confit, 261–262
in pork confit, 263–264
lardo, 12, 34, 175, 201–202
lardons, 40
leaf fat, 34
lecithin, as emulsifier, 277
Le Creuset terrine molds, 28, 208
leek, shrimp, and lobster sausage, 147–148
lemon confit (preserved lemon), 56–57
light, damage to fat caused by, 175, 201
liquid, for sausage, 110
Little House in the Big Woods (Wilder), 79
live cultures, for dry-curing, 179
liver
chicken, in pâté de campagne, 213–214
pork
in pâté de campagne, 213–214
in pâté grandmère, 214–216
lobster, shrimp, and leek sausage, 147–148
loose sausage, 115
loukanika, 102
“Making Bacon” (Aidells), 76–77
maple sugar
-cured smoked bacon, 83–85, 84
source for, 303
marinated olives, 296
marjoram, Brian’s holiday kielbasa, wiejska, with, 118–119
Maryland crab, scallop, and saffron terrine, 241–242
mayonnaise
aïoli, 278–279
basic, 277–278
Hellman’s, 277
Miracle Whip, 277
ratio for, 277
in rémoulade, 279–280
in Russian dressings, 287
McGee, Harold, 75, 78, 178
measuring ingredients
metric equivalents for, 27
by weight versus volume, 28, 38
meat(s). See also beef; lamb; pork; veal; specific types of meat
emulsions, 23
resting after cooking, 62
meat grinders. See grinding meat
Mediterranean olive and vegetable “rillettes,” 270–271
Merguez, 115, 129–130
metric equivalents, 27
Mexican chorizo, 102, 127–129
milk
in boudin blanc, 143–145
dried, for sausages, 106, 140
smoked, 152
Miracle Whip, 277
mise en place, 25
for brining chicken, 64
for pâtés and terrines, 210
for sausage making, 112
mixers, standing
KitchenAid, with grinder attachment, 25, 28, 112
for mixing sausage, 109, 110, 113
mixing
myoglobin development by, 109, 207
of pâtés, 207
of sausage
emulsified, 136
“primary bind,” 109–110, 112–113
moistness, brining and, 57
molasses, blackstrap, country ham, 198–199
mold, on dry-cured foods, 179–180, 181
molds
for pâtés and terrines, 28, 204, 208, 209
source for, 304
Morgan, Elizabeth, 217
mortadella, 142–143
Morton’s kosher salt, 28, 38
mousseline forcemeat, 147–148, 205, 206
mousseline pâtés. See pâtés, mousseline
mushrooms
in foie gras and sweetbread sausage, 149–150
shrimp and salmon terrine with spinach and, 239–240
mustard
caraway-beer, 284–285
green chile, 284
tart cherry, 283
myosin, development by mixing, 109, 207
natural pickle, 69–70
natural processed collagen casings, 105, 180
Near a Thousand Tables (Fernandez-Armesto), 31
nitrates, 38
botulism prevention by, 172–173, 177
dangers of, 177
nitrites
botulism prevention by, 38, 78, 106, 152, 172–173, 177
buying, 41
color and, 177
dangers of, 38, 177, 178–179
for dry-curing, 172–173, 177–179
effects on meat, 38
flavor added by, 40, 173, 177
for sausages, 106
for smoking foods, 78, 152
sources for, 301
when required, 179
nitrosamines, 178–179
nonfat dried milk, for sausages, 106, 140
smoked, 152
norcinos, 174
odor, removing from casings, 104–105
oil. See also fat
in mayonnaise, 277–278
olive(s)
marinated, 296
and vegetable “rillettes,” Mediterranean, 270–271
Oliveto, 36, 174
omentum, 105
On Food and Cooking (McGee), 178
onion(s)
boudin noir with apples and, 145–147
confit, 273–274
-raisin chutney, 295
orange-ginger sauce, 290
overhauling, 45
The Oxford Companion to Food (Davidson), 83
PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons), in smoke, 78
panade for pâtés and terrines, 206
pancetta, 44–45, 46
pan-smoking, 74
paprika
freshness of, 191
Hungarian, 191