Charcuterie_ The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing - Michael Ruhlman [145]
sausage, 166–167
Spanish, smoked, 190–191
Pardus, Michael, 68
Parsons, Russ, 57
pastrami, 91–92
pastry bags, for stuffing sausage, 135, 138
pâtés, 26, 203–254
avocado and artichoke terrine with poached chicken, 250–252
breaking of, 211
cooking, 208–210, 211
country, 205, 212–219
pâté de campagne, 213–214
pâté grandmère, 214–216
pork pie, English, 217–219
doneness of, 210
dough for, 234–235
en croûte, 231, 232–233, 234
salmon, in basil cornmeal crust, 242–245
gratin, 205, 236–238
veal, 237–238
grinding ingredients for, 206
pâtés (continued)
headcheese, 35, 253–254
interior garnish for, 208
mixing, 207
molds for, 208
mousseline, 205, 206, 239–247
aspic for, 246–247
Maryland crab, scallop, and salmon, 241–242
salmon, in basil cornmeal crust, 242–245
shrimp and salmon terrine with spinach and mushrooms, 239–240
panade for, 207
pressing, 212
pureeing, 207
quenelle test for, 207
seasoning for, 206, 207
serving, 212
steps in preparing, 205–206
storing, 212
straight, 205, 219–234
chicken galantine, 223–228, 226–227
duck roulade, roasted, 229–231
pork pâté en croûte, 231, 232–233, 234–235
pork terrine with pork tenderloin inlay, 210–211, 219–221
venison terrine with dried cherries, 221–223
technique for, 210–211
temperature of ingredients for, 206
vegetable terrine, grilled, with goat cheese, 247–249
pâtés en croûte, 203
pâté spice, 147
pear wood for smoking foods, 75
pellicle, 78–79
on brined chicken, 65
on sausages, 152
peperone, 185–186
peppercorns, toasting, 52
Perfect Pig (Kaminsky), 196
Per Se, 12
pH level, dry-curing and, 179, 181
pH meters, 179, 181
source for, 304
pH paper, 179, 181
source for, 304
Le Pichet, 305
pickle (brine), 32–33
pickled vegetables, 68–72
dill pickles, traditional, 71
pickling spice for, 70–71
sweet pickle chips, 298
pickling spice, 70–71
picnic ham, 34, 35
pig. See also pork
cuts produced by, 36–37
naturally grown versus commercially grown, 37
parts of, 33, 34, 35
whole, buying, 36–37
pig ears, 34, 35
pig fat, 33–34. See also back fat (pork)
pig’s blood, in boudin noir with apples and onions, 145–147
pig’s feet, 33
in headcheese, 253–254
pig’s head, in headcheese, 253–254
pink salt, 38
botulism prevention by, 38, 78, 106, 152, 172–173, 177
buying, 41
color and, 177
dangers of, 38, 177, 178–179
for dry-curing, 172–173, 177–179
effects on meat, 38
flavor added by, 40, 173, 177
for sausages, 106
for smoking foods, 78, 152
sources for, 301
when required, 179
piston-and-crank stuffers, 112
plastic casings, 105
plunger stuffers, 112
poaching
of pâtés and terrines, 208–210, 211
of sausages, 114
emulsified, 138
poblano chiles
dried, 128–129, 132
spicy roasted, sausage, 131–132
Polcyn, Brian, 20–24, 26–27, 191
Polish smoked sausage, 22, 115, 163–164
polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), in smoke, 78
pork
back fat. See back fat (pork)
bacon. See bacon
belly, 33, 34, 35, 37
bacon from, 40, 41–45, 77
smoked, maple-cured, 83–85, 84
buying, 41
confit, Jim Drohman’s, 264–266
cured, 201–202
salt pork from, 48–49
butt. See pork shoulder butt
chops
brine time for, 61
garlic-sage–brined, 65–66
grilling, 66
pan-roasting, 66
diet’s effect on meat quality and, 196–197
doneness of, 62, 103
dry rub for, spicy, 90–91
farm-raised versus commercially-raised, 176
fat, rendered, in classic pork rillettes, 267–269
fatback. See back fat (pork)
guanciale, 36, 47
ham. See ham
jowls, 34, 35, 36, 47
liver
in pâté de campagne, 213–214
in pâté grandmère, 214–216
loin, 34, 35, 36, 47
brine time for, 62
smoked, 88–91
cured (Canadian bacon), 88–89
spicy, smoke-roasted, 89–91
pâté en croûte, 231, 232–233, 234
salt, 48–49
salting before making sausage, 107
seasonings for, 61
shanks, 34, 35
shoulder butt. See pork shoulder butt
sources for, 302
tenderloin, 34, 35
in pork terrine with pork tenderloin inlay, 210–211, 219–221
tongue, in headcheese, 253–254
pork shoulder butt, 34, 35
in andouille
cold-smoked, 167–168
hot-smoked, 156–157
in boudin blanc, 143–145
in bratwurst, fresh, classic,