Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [108]
Banco de Bogotá (Av Venezuela, Centro Comercial Uno No 105-107; 8am-11:30am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 8-11:30am & 2-4:30pm Sat)
Citibank (Av Venezuela, Edificio Citibank, piso 1; 8am-noon & 2-4:30pm Mon-Fri)
Davivienda (cnr Av Venezuela & Carrera 9) ATM.
Giros y Finanzas (Av Venezuela No 8A-87; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) This casa de cambio in the old town represents Western Union.
POST
Deprisa ( 664 7822; Av Venezuela, Centro Edificio Citibank, local B1; 8am-12:30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist office (Turismo Cartagena de Indias; 660 1583; www.turismocartagenadeindias.com; Plaza de la Aduana; 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) The main tourist office is situated in Plaza de la Aduana. There are also small booths in Plaza de San Pedro Claver and Plaza de los Coches as well as the administrative offices at Muelle Turístico.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Aventure Colombia ( 314 588 2378; www.aventurecolombia.com; Calle del Santíssimo No 8-55; 9am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Thu, 9am-7pm Fri & Sat) This friendly French-Colombian outfit offers excursions throughout Cartagena and the coast, including La Guajira, Tayrona and upscale sailing trips to Panama.
VISA INFORMATION
DAS ( 666 0172; Carrera 20B No 29-18, Pie de la Popa; 8am-noon & 2-5pm) Immigration and visa extensions; about 1km east of the old town.
Panamanian consulate ( 655 1055; Carrera 1 No 10-10, Bocagrande; 8am-noon Mon-Sat) Located 2km from the old town.
Venezuelan consulate ( 665 0382; Carrera 3 No 8-129, Edificio Centro Executivo, piso 14; 9-11:30am & 1:30-4pm Mon-Fri)
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Dangers & Annoyances
Cartagena’s the safest metropolis in Colombia – some 2000 police officers patrol the old city alone. That said, stay alert at night in less populated areas like Getsemaní, although you are more likely to be irritated by peddlers than become a victim of any crime. Aggressive hassling in the streets by unofficial vendors pushing everything from typical tourist wares to women to cocaine is definitely the No 1 nuisance here. A simple ‘No quiero nada,’ or the old Latin American finger shake-off should shoo them off.
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Sights
OLD TOWN
Without a doubt, Cartagena’s old city is its principal attraction, particularly the inner walled town consisting of the historical districts of El Centro and San Diego. It is a real gem of colonial architecture, packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and mansions with their overhanging balconies and shady patios.
Getsemaní, the outer walled town, is less impressive but has some charming places and is worth exploring. It is less tourist-oriented, but houses the main concentration of budget accommodations and much of the good nightlife.
The old town is surrounded by Las Murallas, the thick walls built to protect it against enemies. Construction began towards the end of the 16th century, after the attack by Francis Drake; until that time Cartagena was almost completely unprotected. The project took two centuries to complete due to repeated damage from both storms and pirate attacks. It was finally finished in 1796, just 25 years before the Spaniards were eventually expelled.
Las Murallas are an outstanding piece of military engineering remarkably well preserved, except for a part of the walls facing La Matuna, which were unfortunately demolished by ‘progressive’ city authorities in the mid-20th century.
The best approach to experiencing the old town is to wander leisurely, savoring the architectural details, street life and local snacks along the way. Don’t just seek out the sights detailed here – there are many other interesting places that you will find while walking around.
The following attractions have been listed in sequence to conveniently connect them in a walking tour.
Muelle Turístico de los Pegasos
This beautiful walkway bridges Getsemaní with the