Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [109]
Puerta del Reloj
Originally called the Boca del Puente, this was the main gateway to the inner walled town and was linked to Getsemaní by a drawbridge over the moat. The side arches of the gate, which are now open as walkways, were previously used as a chapel and armory. The republican-style tower, complete with a four-sided clock, was added in 1888.
Plaza de los Coches
Previously known as Plaza de la Yerba, the triangular plaza just behind Puerta del Reloj was once used as a slave market. It is lined with old balconied houses with colonial arches at ground level. The arcaded walkway, known as El Portal de los Dulces, is today lined with confectionery stands selling local sweets. The statue of the city’s founder, Pedro de Heredia, is in the middle of the plaza.
Plaza de la Aduana
This is the largest and oldest square in the old town and was used as a parade ground. In colonial times, all the important governmental and administrative buildings were here. The old Royal Customs House was restored and is now the City Hall. A statue of Christopher Columbus stands in the center of the square.
Museo de Arte Moderno
The Museum of Modern Art ( 664 5815; Plaza de San Pedro Claver; adult/child COP$3000/2000; 9am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Thu, 9am-noon & 3-7pm Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) is the perfect sized museum (not too huge to overwhelm), housed in a part of the 17th century former Royal Customs House. It presents temporary exhibitions from its own collection, including works by Alejandro Obregón, one of Colombia’s most remarkable painters, who was born in Cartagena. There’s also sculpture and abstract art – all well worth a look. The second floor houses temporary exhibitions.
Convento & Iglesia de San Pedro Claver
The convent was founded by Jesuits in the first half of the 17th century, originally as San Ignacio de Loyola. The name was later changed in honor of Spanish-born monk Pedro Claver (1580–1654), who lived and died in the convent. Called the ‘Apostle of the Blacks’ or the ‘Slave of the Slaves,’ he spent all his life ministering to the slaves brought from Africa. He was the first person to be canonized in the New World (in 1888).
The convent is a monumental three-story building surrounding a tree-filled courtyard, and part of it is open as a museum ( 664 4991; Plaza de San Pedro Claver; adult/child COP$6000/4000; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 4:30pm Sun). Exhibits include religious art and pre-Columbian ceramics as well as a new section devoted to Afro-Caribbean contemporary pieces like wonderful Haitian paintings and African masks. You can visit the cell where San Pedro Claver lived and died, and also climb a narrow staircase to the choir loft of the adjacent church ( 664 7256). Guides, should you need one, are waiting by the ticket office and charge COP$10,000/12,000 for a Spanish/English tour for a group of up to seven people. Iglesia de San Pedro Claver was completed in the first half of the 18th century. The church has an imposing stone facade and inside, there are fine stained-glass windows and a high altar made of Italian marble. The remains of San Pedro Claver are kept in a glass coffin in the altar. His skull is visible, making this an alter with a difference.
Museo Naval del Caribe
Opened in 1992 on the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ discovery of the New World, the Naval Museum ( 664 2440; Calle San Juan de Dios No 3-62; adult/child COP$6000/3000; 9am-7pm) occupies a great colonial building, once a Jesuit college. It features, for the most part, a grand collection of reconstructed cityscapes and boat models from throughout the centuries, but woefully lacks much in the way of actual artifacts (though there are some nice torpedoes).
Plaza de Bolívar
Formerly the Plaza de Inquisición, this leafy and shaded plaza, surrounded by some of the city’s most elegant balconied colonial buildings, offers wonderful respite from the Caribbean heat. As expected, a statue of Simón Bolívar stands in the middle of the plaza.
Palacio de la Inquisición
The haunting Palace of the Inquisition is one of the finest buildings in town.