Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [123]
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MOMPOX
5 / pop 62,000 / elev 33m
You’ll feel you’ve gone over the river and through the woods before you arrive here, but sleepy Mompox, hugging the banks of the mighty Río Magdalena like a newborn to its maker, will soon have you telling folks it’s not about the journey, it’s the destination.
Declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1995, the atmosphere evoked in the Mompox environs is certainly unique in Colombia (this is Bayou living, South America–style), and is well worth experiencing, despite the hardships of getting here. Surrounded by muddy rivers and thick vegetation, Mompox is 200km southeast of Cartagena, and reached by a combination of bus, boat and car.
Mompox has a long tradition in hand-worked filigree gold and silver jewelry, which is of outstanding quality. The town’s other specialty is its muebles momposinos (Mompox-style furniture). Despite the scarcity of timber in the region, several workshops still continue the tradition, making locally crafted items, particularly rocking chairs, which are renowned nationwide. In the evenings, momposinos rock calmly in their rocking chairs, which are as ubiquitous around town as flood protection. The whole thing feels a little Huckleberry Finn (or, should we say, Huck Finnito?).
Mompox also has a tradition in literature and was the setting for Chronicle of a Death Foretold by Gabriel García Márquez. Tourism hasn’t yet consumed the area, so you might get the town to yourself most days, feeding the romantic notion that you are very much down in the Delta.
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History
Traditionally known as Santa Cruz de Mompox, the town was founded in 1540 by Alonso de Heredia (brother of Cartagena’s founder, Pedro de Heredia) on the eastern branch of the Río Magdalena, which in this part has two arms – Brazo Mompox and Brazo de Loba. The town’s name comes from Mompoj, the name of the last cacique (tribal head) of the Kimbay people, who inhabited the region before the Spanish Conquest.
Mompox soon became an important trading center and active port through which all merchandise from Cartagena passed via the Canal del Dique and the Río Magdalena to the interior of the colony. When Cartagena was attacked by pirates, Mompox served as a refuge for the families of the city’s defenders.
The town flourished and several fair-sized churches and luxurious mansions were built. In 1810 Mompox proclaimed its independence from the Virreynato de la Nueva Granada; it was the first town to do so. Simón Bolívar, who stayed here for a short time during his liberation campaign, said: ‘While to Caracas I owe my life, to Mompox I owe my glory.’
Towards the end of the 19th century, shipping on the Río Magdalena was diverted to the other branch of the river, the Brazo de Loba, bringing the town’s prosperity to an end. Mompox has been left in isolation, living on memories of times gone by. Little has changed since. The town’s colonial character is very much in evidence, as are the airs of a bygone era. It’s fun to wander aimlessly about this tranquil town, discovering its rich architectural legacy and absorbing the old-time atmosphere.
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Information
ATM (BBVA) (Plaza de Bolívar)
Club Net ( 685 5915; Carrera 1 No 16-53; per hr COP$1500; 7am-9pm) Internet services.
Hospital ( 685 6484; Calle 19)
Planet Net ( 685 5632; Carerra 2 No 14A-46; per hr COP$2000; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat) Internet services.
Policia Nacional ( 689 0891; cnr Calle 19 & Calle de Atras)
Servientrega ( 685 5141; Carrera 1 No 18-15; 7am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 7am-noon Sat) Post office.
Tourist office ( 311 413 0005; Plaza de la Libertad; 7am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Located on the 2nd floor of the alcaldía building.
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Sights & Activities
Frankly, there’s not a lot to see or do in Mompox. Its charm lies in simply strolling along the tranquil waterfront and along its quiet residential streets, taking in the town’s distinctive