Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [124]
The best museum in town is Museo Cultural (Calle 2 No 14-15; adult/child COP$3000/2000; 8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat), which is situated in the house where Simón Bolívar once stayed and features a small collection of elaborate religious art.
Mompox has six churches, all dating from colonial days and fairly similar in style and construction. They are open only for mass, which may be just once or twice a week. The tourist office may be able to tell you about the churches’ current opening hours. The most interesting and unusual is the Iglesia de Santa Bárbara, facing the square of the same name and next to the river. Built in 1630, the church has an octagonal baroque-style bell tower circled by a balcony, unique in Colombian religious architecture.
Iglesia de San Agustín houses the famous, richly gilded Santo Sepulcro, which is one of the most prominent objects carried around the streets during the Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions. The statues of the saints in this church are paraded as well.
Iglesia de San Francisco is one of the oldest churches in town, built in 1580, and has the most interesting interior, particularly the lateral retables. Iglesia de la Concepción is the largest local church and is open more frequently than the others.
Mompox is also home to a fascinating Cementerio Municipal (Calle 18; 8am-noon & 2-5pm), which – call it macabre – is the most interesting spot in town to visit. Whitewashed graves and slots for remains are stacked high atop each other, sometimes six together, forming a wall of tombstones around a central chapel. It’s well worth a stroll.
In the evening, when the baking heat of day has cooled slightly, you’ll see many locals relaxing in front of their homes, sitting in (of course) Mompox-made rocking chairs.
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Festivals & Events
Semana Santa (Holy Week) is taken very seriously in Mompox. The celebrations are elaborate, comparable only to those in Popayán Click here. The solemn processions circle the streets for several hours on the evenings of Maundy Thursday and Good Friday. Many images of the saints from the town’s churches are involved.
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Sleeping
Except during Holy Week, you won’t have problems finding accommodations.
La Casa Amarilla ( 685 6326; www.lacasaamarillamompos.blogspot.com; Carerra 1 No 13-59; dm COP$15,000, s/d without bathroom COP$20,000/30,000, with bathroom COP$30,000/40,000) This new hostel is run by a British travel journalist (so he has no excuse). It sits on a little plaza next to the river (and a loud outdoor watering hole) and offers a few four-bed dorms with clean bathrooms, some private options, laundry service, a kitchen, a big communal dining table and a living room. Handy for many travelers, the staff speak English, and you can also rent bikes.
Hospadaje La Quarta ( 684 0127; Carrera 4 No 18-57; r with fan per person COP$15,000, with air-con per person COP$25,000; ) Located just out of the historic district behind Iglesia de Santo Domingo, this rustic spot is actually a step up in quality and a step down in price. Simple but colorful, it’s the best air-con value for money.
Casa Villa de Mompox ( 685 5208; Calle Real del Medio No 14-108; s/d with fan COP$25,000/35,000, with air-con COP$35,000/55,000; ) A quieter spot also offering lower-priced air-con than most. The beds are nice and soft too – a refreshing change of pace in this price range.
Hotel La Casona ( 685 5307; Calle Real del Medio No 18-58; s/d with