Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [125]
Hotel San Andrés ( 685 5886; www.hotelsanandresmompox.com; Calle Real del Medio No 18-23; s/d with fan COP$30,000/50,000, with air-con COP$40,000/70,000; ) It feels a bit like sleeping in a pet shop (the place is livened up by parakeets and parrots that inhabit the courtyard), but this is another solid midrange choice, similar to La Casona. But someone should do something about those gaudy pink bedspreads.
Hostal Doña Manuela ( 685 5621; Calle Real del Medio No 17-41; s/d with fan COP$76,000/103,000, with air-con COP$90,000/121,000; ) Inside a restored colonial mansion in slight disrepair, long arched hallways and two ample courtyards plus a swimming pool and a restaurant help propel this to top digs in town, but it’s nothing remarkable. The pool can be used by nonguests (COP$6000).
Return to beginning of chapter
Eating & Drinking
For a town of its size and isolation, there are some decent spots to eat and drink here. In the evenings, the makeshift food court that commences on the plaza outside the Iglesia de Santo Domingo is a good spot for fresh juices, cheap food and a chance to mingle with locals. You’ll also see butifarras (small smoked meatballs), sold only on the street by butifarreros, who walk along with big pots, striking them with a knife to get your attention.
Comedor Costeño ( 685 5263; Calle de la Albarrada No 18-45; set meal COP$3000-7000; 7am-5pm) This rustic riverfront restaurant in the market area serves wonderful seat meals, including bocachico fish numerous ways. Owner Doña Mery is a real gem, but she shows no mercy in her fiery housemade ají picante (hot pepper sauce). Lunch plates come with excellent soup, salad, three starches (god bless her) and your chosen fish or meat preparation. You can eat it all right on the river or within the graffitied walls of the tiny dining room.
Asadero Patio Bonito (Calle Real del Medio No 14-25; set meal COP$5000; dinner) A super rustic spot – it’s basically a few tables on someone’s front patio – that offers set meals of grilled meats served on small wooden tablets. The meat is a little tough, but it ain’t bad at all.
Crepes D’ La Villa (Calle Real del Medio, No 17-56; crepes COP$7000-8000; breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, breakfast & lunch Sun) This ice-cream parlor, creperie and bakery is a tasty change of pace. The crepes here aren’t likely to pass muster in France, but the momposinos aren’t complaining. Finish off with a sweet treat like tornillos, a pastry stuffed with arequipe (Colombian milk caramel). It’s also a good spot to try jugo de corozo, a refreshing juice typical of the coast.
Dely Bross ( 685 5644; Calle 18 No 2-37; mains COP$7000-16,000; breakfast, lunch & dinner) The nicest restaurant in town features actual tablecloths over local artisan tables and chairs. It does rotisserie chicken and carne asados (grilled meats) The specialty is sobrebarriga momposino, a thinly-cut flank of beef covered in a tasty stewed-onion-and-tomato sauce.
Luna de Mompox ( 311 412 2843; Calle de la Albarrada; 6pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri-Sun) A decent little staple for a drink with tables right on the river’s edge.
La Barra ( 685 5284; Plaza de la Concepción; 7pm-1am Tue-Thu, to 3:30am Fri-Sun) This new spot is actually the nicest bar in town, but lacks the longstanding reputation and waterfront location of Luna de Mompox. Still, it seems too stylish for Mompox.
Return to beginning of chapter
Shopping
Casa del Artesanto (Calle de la Albarrada No 12-155; 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) It’s very difficult to hang around Mompox watching the residents sway away the days in their distinctive rocking chairs and not want one for yourself. This small shop represents a few furniture makers around town – one can be yours for somewhere in the COP$60,000 to COP$100,000 price range. They’ll even ship it for you!
El Kilate ( 685 5151;