Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [171]
MIDRANGE
Provenza Hostal (Map; 326 5600; www.provenzahostal.com; Carrera 35 No 7-2; s/d/tr/q COP$90,000/120,000/150,000/180,000; ) This stylish, simply-decorated and well-managed small hotel offers clean rooms with private bath. There’s free desktop internet, and rates includes breakfast on the sunny patio. Right in the heart of the zona rosa.
Hotel La Habana Vieja ( 312 2557; www.hotellahabanavieja.com; Calle 10 Sur No 43A-7, El Poblado; s/d COP$100,000/117,000; ) This Colombian-style B&B is popular with domestic business travelers. Built on the side of a hill just off Av Poblado (Carrera 43A), the reception area has red plush furniture and lots of hanging pot plants, although suffers from some road noise. The downstairs rooms, which are still above ground, face away from the street and are quiet. Paisley furniture decorates the downstairs lounge. Amenities include gas hot water, cable TV and fans.
TOP END
Estelar Poblado Plaza (Map; 268 5555; www.hotelpobladoplaza.com; Carrera 43A No 4 Sur-75; s/d/tr/ste COP$273,000/351,000/432,000/405,000; ) Right on the Milla de Oro, this fine hotel has a fountain out front, fresh-cut heliconias in the lobby, and a gym and sauna on the premises. There’s a desktop computer on every floor as well as free wi-fi. The service is not world-class but the location and accommodations are both superb.
Hotel Dann Carlton (Map; 1 800 094 5525; www.danncarlton.com; Carrera 43A No 7-50; s/d COP$420,000/450,000, ste COP$530,000-770,000) Expect rose petals strewn about your room when you arrive, and a fresh bunch of same on the bed. Service is attentive at this top-notch hotel, and a few staff members speak English. The suites in particular are huge, with attached sitting room, walk-in closet and massive bathroom. There’s a revolving restaurant on the 19th floor with great views of the city. Ask for a room with a view over the adjacent Parque Linear.
Return to beginning of chapter
Eating
El Poblado is full of upscale restaurants. The Las Palmas district, up in the foothills overlooking the city, has several top eateries with superb views. For something more authentic, stroll down Pasaje Junín, in central Medellín, during the day.
EL POBLADO
Carulla (Map; 361 7777; 24hr) This supermarket is right next to CC Oviedo. It has a great salad bar (including fruit salad) with selections sold by weight. A good place to sample Colombia’s many wonderful tropical fruits. Sandwiches and hot food too.
Flor de Canela (Map; 311 5877; Carrera 43B No 8-65; mains COP$7000-12,000; breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, breakfast & lunch Sat) Lots of local office workers eat here. It does a good set meal, with specials like pumpkin soup, spaghetti bolognese and sometimes traditional dishes like ajiaco (a typical Bogotá stew).
Café Le Bon (Map; 266 8872; lebon@epm.net.co; Calle 9 No 39-09; 9am-1am Mon-Sat, to 11pm Sun) One of Medellín’s few real coffee shops, Le Bon would not be out of place in a funky arts neighborhood in any North American city. Choose from 14 types of espresso and 10 of cappuccino. It’s also a good spot for breakfast (COP$7000 to COP$15,000), and serves lunch and snacks throughout the day, including soup, salads, and both sweet and savory crepes. In the evening the stereo stays leashed, making it a quiet spot for a cocktail or a beer.
Il Forno (Map; 266 9402; Carrera 37A No 8-9; mains COP$7000-18,000) Set in the middle of the zona rosa, this open-air Italian restaurant doesn’t do gimmicks or discounts, just good, solid food at a fair price. It serves pizza and sandwiches, lasagna and ravioli, and even steak. There’s a good range of salads for the herbivores. Desserts are a mere COP$6000. It may not be gourmet, but at this price, who cares?
Alex Carne de Res (Map; 352 3740; Carrera 48 No 10-70; mains COP$7500-14,500; lunch & dinner) For a decent budget steak, Alex can’t be beat. The building