Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [172]
Pasilú (Map; 311 2527; Carrera 47 No 7-49; mains COP$8000-15,000; 10am-8pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat) This gourmet budget option is right next to the footbridge by the metro station. It does a great set meal, and also sandwiches any time of day. Serves wine and beer.
Il Castello (Map; 312 8287; Carrera 40 No 10A-14; mains COP$19,000-36,000) For authentic, top-quality Italian food, look no further than Il Castello. Try the fettucine trento (lobster served with a brandy and cream sauce), or the many pastas, raviolis and pizzas. It has an exceptional wine list; you’ll imbibe your drop of red in large balloon glasses. Tucked just off Calle 10, you’ll spot the place by the many expensive cars parked out front.
Thaico (Map; 311 5639, 352 2166; Calle 9A No 37-40; mains COP$20,000-30,000; noon-1am Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun) Don’t expect chopsticks or even spicy food here, at what is one of the very few Thai joints in Colombia. Still, the food’s not bad, especially before 7pm, when all meals are half-price and cocktails are three-for-one (normally COP$12,000 to COP$15,000 each). Great subdued, relaxed atmosphere, and a prime spot for a long, liquid lunch.
Bahía Mar (Map; 352 0938, 312 758 7796; Calle 9 No 43B-127; mains COP$20,000-50,000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, lunch Sun) This top notch seafood place offers mariscos in a Caribbean setting. Merengue plays on the stereo, and the signature dish is langostino Providencia (Providencia-style king prawns). The tables are laid out simply with blue tablecloths on top of white. They also do enormous shrimp cocktails and light platters of seafood crepes. A top choice for seafood in Medellín.
LAS PALMAS
Discovery ( 232 9518, 232 9608; Km1, Las Palmas; mains COP$17,000-60,000; lunch & dinner) Perched on the edge of the northern foothills in the Las Palmas district, Discovery has amazing views, and even better food. The specialty is seafood – try the cazuela de mariscos al coco (seafood stew with coconut, COP$35,000), or the parrilla mixta (mixed grill, COP$36,000). There’s live music on Friday and Saturday night.
CENTRAL MEDELLíN
Café Colombo (Map; 513 4444, ext 183; Carrera 45 No 53-24; cafecolombo@colomboworld.com; mains COP$11,000-23,000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) On the top floor of the building also housing the Centro Colombo Americano, this minimalist spot serves up light meals along with stunning views of the city and mountains. Go for the set meal (COP$15,500), which changes weekly, or try the crepes, pasta, steak or trout. Its 10th-floor outdoor terrace is a great spot for cocktails early in the evening.
Los Toldos (Map; 512 3675; Calle 54 No 47-11; mains COP$15,000-18,000; lunch & dinner) Elderly waiters wear traditional paísa costumes at this typical paísa place. Old-style Colombian folk music plays on the stereo. Go for the daily special, around COP$15,000, or indulge in a hearty bandeja paísa (platter). It prepares typical desserts like arequipe, breva and quesito (sample all three sweet and creamy treats for COP$5000). It’s a bit camp but the food is excellent.
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Drinking
The city’s zona rosa is in El Poblado, a Disneyland of upscale restaurants and bars. The Las Palmas district sits perched on the northern foothills of Medellín, and its numerous thumping discos boast spectacular views of the city. Several large discos also cluster on the highway out of town. For a more grunge experience, check out the bars around Parque del Periodista.
b lounge (Map; 311 5048; cnr Calle 10A & Carrera 34; 9pm-3am Wed-Sat) This small, groovy bar attracts a relatively young crowd. Feather boas hang from the ceiling, and the Wednesday night karaoke is very popular. There’s a wooden terrace outside facing the car dealership across the street. On the edge of the ever-expanding zona rosa at the time of our research.
Babylon ( 381 8169; Km1, Las Palmas;