Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [179]
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RÍO CLARO
elev 350m
Three hours east of Medellín and five hours west of Bogotá is the Reserva Natural Cañon de Río Claro ( 265 8855; www.rioclaroelrefugio.com; Autopista Medellín–Bogotá Km132; campsite per person COP$5000, r per person incl 3 meals COP$55,000-80,000). A river has carved a stunning canyon from its marble bed. Here you can visit a spectacular cave, go kayaking, white-water rafting, canopying, or just swim and hike along its banks. It’s also a favorite spot for bird-watchers, who come to see everything from hummingbirds to herons to vultures.
Set 2km south of the Medellín–Bogotá highway, the reserve offers a variety of accommodation options. The most impressive are a 15-minute walk upriver from the restaurant – the rooms face the open jungle, and you fall asleep to the roar of the river beside you and the loud thrum of crickets in the night. You’ll wake to see mist rising up through the jungle-clad canyon. There are also bunk beds, twin rooms and double rooms above the restaurant/visitors center. It also manages a motel-style property at the edge of the highway, but it suffers from the constant highway road noise.
Be sure to visit the Caverna de los Guácharos (COP$8000), a spectacular nearby cave. Cavern after cavern soar high and hollow like great cathedrals. A stream runs through the cave, about 1km long. The entrances are guarded by shrill, shrieking flocks of guácharos, a batlike nocturnal bird. You’ll be given a life vest and be expected to swim part of the way.
The river is a fine place to paddle a kayak (COP$20,000) or go rafting (COP$20,000). The rapids are Class I – hard-core rafters may be disappointed. Five canopy cables crisscross the river, and make for a diverting afternoon zipping across the river (COP$20,000).
You must bring your own swimsuit, towel and flashlight. On weekends the reserve is often full of Colombian high school students – you may prefer to come during the week. The food served is second-rate, with fruit and vegetables making only cameo appearances. Cooking is only permitted in the camping area. Beer is for sale in the restaurant but hard liquor is forbidden. It is requested you book with at least a week’s notice.
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Orientation & Information
The reserve is 24km west of Doradal. There are two ATMs in town on the main square and an internet cafe, @nberdi.com ( 834 2057; 8am-10pm; per hr COP$2000), half a block from the park above the Comcel sign.
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Getting There & Away
Most Medellín–Bogotá buses will drop you at the entrance. From any other direction, look for transport to Doradal. From here it’s COP$4500 to Río Claro in a shared taxi, or hail any passing intercity bus.
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LA DANTA
This small town makes an interesting day trip from Río Claro. There are several caves and a marble mine you can visit, but the real draw are the two artesanía workshops run by former paramilitaries, most of whom retired after losing a leg or two in combat. There is a guadua (bamboo) workshop ( 311 714 6333, 320 621 0818) where men make sofas, lamps, cups and smaller knickknacks. More interesting is the marble workshop, where you’ll find marble sculptures of animals, football-team shields, and even detailed renderings of earthmovers. It’s best to call before visiting as they are not always open. If you ask politely they may tell you about their experiences as paramilitaries.
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HACIENDA NáPOLES
Once the site of Pablo Escobar’s country retreat and private zoo, this new theme park ( 834 2129, 317 330 4918; www.haciendanapoles.com; admission COP$20,000) is refurbishing the ruins. There’s a large mariposario (butterfly enclosure) – the stereo plays Vivaldi’s ‘Four Seasons’ on continuous loop. Escobar’s 18 pet hippopotamuses somehow survived decades of neglect; there are zebras, dantas (tapirs) and ostriches too. Loudspeakers blast ‘dinosaur noises’ as you rock up at the main gate – there are numerous