Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [180]
Nápoles is an ambitious project that has a long way to go. Dozens of workers were busy when we visited, but we were the only tourists there. A four-star African-themed hotel is being built, and an aquarium, canopy cables, reptile park and horseback-riding facilities are all in the works.
The turnoff to the hacienda is 1km from Doradal. From here it’s 2km more to the entrance, and 2km further still to the center of the action. There’s no public transport here. Taxis and moto-taxis leave from the main park in Doradal. Be cautioned: drivers might try to rip you off. Average price for the trip should be COP$15,000 to COP$20,000 each way.
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A recommended guide is Blanca Luz ( 313 852 1912). If you decide to spend the night, try the Hotel Campestre La Caverna ( 314 687 6092; s COP$20,000, d & tr COP$30,000; ).
There is infrequent bus service between La Danta and Doradal, which you can pick up at la partida de La Danta (the highway turnoff to La Danta). The last bus back leaves between 4:30 and 5pm (COP$2000, 30 minutes). Or take a moto-taxi direct to Río Claro (COP$15,000, 30 minutes). From la partida you can hail any passing Medellín-bound bus back to Río Claro.
ZONA CAFETERA
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The Zona Cafetera, also called the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Axle), generally refers to the triangle formed by Bogotá, Medellín and Cali, although in practice this means the three small cities of Manizales, Pereira and Armenia. The region continues to produce a sizable portion of Colombia’s coffee crop, and there are numerous coffee farms you can visit.
The area boasts spectacular natural beauty. There are stunning vistas everywhere – Salento, in particular, and the adjacent Valle de Cocora, are jaw-dropping. Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados soars above 5000m and offers trekking opportunities through the striking páramo (high-mountain plains). The nightclubs of the region also has spectacular natural beauty.
The region was colonized by paísas in the 19th century during the colonización antioqueña, and to this day remains culturally closer to Medellín than either Cali or Bogotá, in everything from its traditional architecture to its cuisine.
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MANIZALES
6 / pop 370,000 / elev 2150m
The northern wheel of the Coffee Axle, Manizales is a pleasantly cool, midsized university town, surrounded on all sides by green mountain scenery. There is a strong student vibe, and many excellent restaurants and nightclubs cater to their tastes and budgetary requirements. Manizales is also the gateway to PNN Los Nevados and the three nearby nature reserves – Recinto del Pensamiento, Río Blanco and Los Yarumos. Several coffee farms offer popular tours.
Manizales is the capital of the Caldas department, and was founded in 1849 by a group of Antioquian colonists looking to escape the civil wars of that time. According to local legend, the original settlement consisted of 20 families, including the family of Manuel Grisales, after whom the new city was named. Manizales’ early development was hindered by two earthquakes in 1875 and 1878, and a fire in 1925. For this reason there’s not a lot of historical interest left – the real attractions are the surrounding nature activities and the town’s popping nightlife.
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Orientation
Manizales is built on a ridgeline. The entire city stretches along one main thoroughfare – Av Santander (Carrera 23) – and houses and businesses slope down either side.
The de facto city center has shifted from around Plaza de Bolívar to Cable Plaza (Av Santander near Calle 65), the former cable-car station east of the center that now hosts a large shopping mall. The churches and museums remain in the old center but the best eating and accommodations options cluster near Cable Plaza.
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