Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [188]
Hotel Abadia Plaza ( 335 8398; www.hotelabadiaplaza.com; Carrera 8 No 21-67; s/d COP$144,000/180,000; ) This stylish new place is as close as Pereira comes to a boutique hotel, with original art on the walls, plush rooms with marble bathrooms and noise-resistant windows. Price includes breakfast, free wi-fi, and there’s a gym and sauna you can use.
Hotel Castilla Real ( 333 2192; www.hotelcastillareal.com; Calle 15 No 12B-15; ) This fine small hotel caters principally to business travelers. The 24 rooms have air-con, cable TV and minibar, and the restaurant serves breakfast and dinner. The service is excellent.
Hotel de Pereira ( 335 0770; www.hoteldepereira.com; Carrera 13 No 15-73; s/d/tr COP$199,000/259,000/318,000; ) It may not be the poshest, but it’s certainly the largest hotel in town. Its 10 floors range around a large interior atrium, with leather furniture in the lobby below. Prices halve during the week.
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Eating
Grajales Autoservicios (Carrera 8 No 21-60; mains COP$8000-14,000; 24hr) At this large, self-service 24-hour restaurant-cum-bakery you can put together your own lunch or dinner. It’s also good for breakfast.
Mama Flor ( 335 4793; Calle 11 No 15-12, Los Alpes; mains COP$17,000-26,000; noon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) Set up on a hill in a quiet residential neighborhood, this old-time restaurant is famous for its down-home Colombian food. Eat out on the large covered verandah with a decent bottle of wine. Grill is a specialty here; try the parrilla de carnes (mixed grill, COP$43,000), which is big enough for two. If you fancy fish, go for the robalo (sea bass)
El Mirador ( 331 2141, 331 5747; elmiradorparrillashow@yahoo.com.ar; Entrada Avenida Circunvalar Calle 4; mains COP$24,000-38,000; noon-2am Mon-Sat) Outside the city on top of a mountain with fantastic views of the twinkling lights of Pereira is this gem. The real highlight is the live tango shows on Friday and Saturday night – be sure to book in advance. The shows start at 10pm, and no one shows up much before 9pm. The food follows the Argentine theme – order the churrasco Argentina (grilled meat, COP$24,000) and wash it down with a bottle of Malbec (COP$65,000). Taxis add a COP$2000 surcharge for the trip.
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Drinking
There are many lively bars in Sector Circunvalar, but the official zona rosa is a little ways outside of the city in Sector La Badea, where all the nightclubs are located.
Bar Celona ( 324 4721; Av Circunvalar No 8-136; 6pm-3am) Owned by an unashamed FC Barcelona football fan (club posters decorate the walls) this down-home style drinkery plays good ol’ fashioned Colombian music; don’t be surprised if the entire crowd joins in the chorus to a favorite song. It’s spread over two floors; the smaller second level has view of street. A good place to start your evening.
La Cantera ( 330 5593, 317 456 9345, 300 600 2247; La Badea; cover COP$10,000; 9pm-3am Fri & Sat) The first club you come to as you enter the zona rosa is also the most spectacular. Set on the edge of the cliff, one wall is open-air to let in the twinkling city lights. In the middle of the twinkling, 2m in the air, sits the DJ, who spins Colombian crossover.
Mango Biche ( 343 7520, 330 8072; La Badea; cover COP$10,000; 8pm-6am) This salsa joint is of the same genre as Mango’s of Medellín – a large, barnlike structure with waiters dressed as paísa peasants. Huge quantities of flea market junk hang from the ceiling. Plays mostly salsa and some merengue.
Paradise ( 322 8840, Transversal 7 Deturas de Makro; cover COP$10,000; 9pm-4am Fri & Sat) Set apart from the main zona rosa, this cavernous space puts the DJ up on a pedestal, where he spins techno till late. There are three bars to keep you well-lubricated, and an equal number of fish tanks for you to talk