Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [189]
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Getting There & Away
AIR
Pereira’s international Aeropuerto Matecaña ( 326 0021, 314 2765) is 5km west of the city center, 20 minutes by urban bus, or COP$8000 by taxi. Airlines Avianca, Aires, AeroRepública and Satena offer domestic flights and budget international flights to Panama and Miami.
BUS
The bus terminal ( 321 5834, 335 4437; Calle 17 No 23-157) is 1.5km south of the city center. Many urban buses will take you there in less than 10 minutes.
There are regular departures to Bogotá (COP$44,000, nine hours); all buses go via Armenia, not Manizales. A number of buses go to Medellín (COP$28,000, five hours) and Cali (COP$22,000, four hours). Minibuses run every 15 minutes to Armenia (COP$5000, one hour) and Manizales (COP$5000, 1¼ hours). Minibuses to Manizales pass through Santa Rosa de Cabal (COP$2500, 45 minutes).
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Getting Around
Pereira’s new Megabus (www.megabus.gov.co) system runs crosstown and out to Dosquebradas. It’s similar to Bogotá’s TransMilenio and Cali’s Mio, but on a smaller scale. The taxi minimum is COP$3200 with a COP$700 surcharge after 7pm.
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TERMALES DE SANTA ROSA
6 / elev 1950m
These spectacular thermal springs ( 363 4959; www.termalessantarosadecabal.com; admission COP$24,000; 9am-11pm) are located at the foot of three adjacent waterfalls, the largest 170m high. Opened in 1945 and built in the style of a Swiss chalet, the hotel and tourist complex have the air of another place and time. There’s a complete spa service for those wanting the luxury treatment, including exfoliation, massage and thermal mud treatments. You can also just come for the day to laze around in 40°C pools. There’s a cafeteria, bar and a more upscale restaurant in the hotel lobby.
The on-site Hotel Termales ( 363 4966; r per person COP$120,000-180,000, campsite per person COP$95,000, with own tent COP$75,000) offers luxury accommodations in a sprawling three-story mansion. Price includes three meals and access to the thermals. The older Casa Finca portion of the hotel has shared showers. There are discounts in the low season and during the week.
Owned and managed by the neighboring spa, the adjacent Balneario de Santa Rosa thermals ( 363 4948; admission COP$20,000; 9am-midnight) are cheaper but only slightly less impressive. A 25m-waterfall crashes down next to the four nearby thermal pools, and Colombian music blasts from the speakers. A bar and cafeteria serves food, beer and liquor. There’s a shaded lounge with wicker furniture for when you’ve had too much sun. From the entrance, walk up a stone path through a lovely garden about 10 minutes to reach the balneario (swimming hole)
There are no accommodations on-site for these springs, but small three hotels cluster 500m from the entrance to the balneario. The cheapest is Cabaña el Portal ( 315 582 5001, 314 888 9958; r per person COP$20,000). It has hot water and satellite TV, and also serves budget meals.
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Getting There & Away
The thermals are 9km east of Santa Rosa de Cabal, off the Pereira–Manizales road. Chivas leave la galería (market area) in Santa Rosa at 7am, noon and 3:30pm (COP$2700, 45 minutes), returning to Santa Rosa de Cabal at 8am, 1pm and 4pm. Jeeps can take you out here for around COP$20,000. The chivas turn around and go back to Santa Rosa soon after their arrival at the springs. There are sometimes additional departures on weekends.
There is frequent daytime service Santa Rosa–Pereira (COP$1700, 40 minutes). Buses to Chinchiná pass the old railway station on the edge of town every 15 minutes (COP$3000, 30 minutes). From there you can grab a bus uphill to Manizales (COP$5000, 30 minutes) or northbound to Medellín (COP$24,000, five hours, hourly).
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TERMALES SAN VICENTE
6 / elev 2250m
Set at the head of a steep 200m-wide valley and straddling a cold creek, these newer thermals ( 333 6157; www.sanvicente.com.co; admission COP$18,000, r per person COP$80,000-145,000,