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campsite per person COP$44,000) are 18km east of Santa Rosa de Cabal but feel a world away. There are five thermals pools (37°C) – the water is sold for its reputed medicinal properties – and the spa offers the full range of spa treatment, including mud therapy, algae facials, peels and massage. Numerous thermal springs bubble up from the earth nearby, in one spot emerging to mix with an adjacent creek, allowing you to bathe in a warm stream. There are three natural saunas, built over 80°C to 90°C hot springs below. A 300m-canopy line zips across the narrow valley to a 30m-waterfall you can rappel down. Several muddy trails lead upward to other waterfalls; there’s also a paintball court, and you can rent mountain bikes to explore the valley further. The only TV is in the common room.

Cabins range from split-log rustic to modern minimalist with working fireplace and private thermal pool. Most have electric shower heads. Rates includes admission and breakfast; the VIP plan also includes lunch and dinner. Those on a budget should ask about the COP$50,000 rooms, which have low attic ceiling and shared bathrooms. They aren’t advertised, but are good value.

San Vicente lies near the edge of Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados. A 19km pitted road leads upward toward Laguna del Otún (3950m). The paving of this road was underway at our visit, and it may be possible to visit the national park from San Vicente in the future.

The baths are operated from the Pereira booking office (Map; 333 6157; Carrera 13 No 15-62), where you can make inquiries and bookings. It offers one daily bus service to the thermals at 9am (8am weekends), returning at 5pm (COP$18,000 return, 1¼hr). You can also take a jeep from la galería in Santa Rosa de Cabal (COP$50,000). Be sure to book a day or two in advance, especially for weekends and holidays. Don’t go on Monday when the pools are drained for cleaning.

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SANTUARIO OTÚN QUIMBAYA

This nature reserve 18km southeast of Pereira protects a 489-hectare area of high biodiversity between 1800m and 2400m. Set on the Río Otún, it boasts more than 200 species of birds and butterflies and two rare species of monkey, among other wildlife. The reserve has a visitor center in La Suiza (Map), and several short hiking trails. Two guides who speak some English are available (COP$29,000 per day). The best time to come is August and September, and December and January, when the persistent drizzle eases somewhat.

The visitors center at La Suiza (Map; 315 5600, 314 880 3828; concesionotunquimbaya@hotmail.com; admission foreigners/Colombians, COP$25,000/COP$9000) provides accommodations (dorm with/without bath COP$31,000/25,000) and budget meals. There are electric shower heads (24-hour electricity) but no central heating, and fires are not allowed. Ask for a room on the second floor, which have small balconies facing the forest and birdsong. A large satellite TV blares in the lobby. It is considering offering double beds in the future.

The visitors center is located in Vereda La Suiza, a small municipality. Transporte Florida ( 334 2721, Calle 12 No 9-40; La Galeria) in Pereira offers daily chiva service (COP$3100, 1½ hours) at 7am, 9am and 3pm, with extra service at noon on weekends. The chiva continues past the visitors center to El Cedral, where it immediately turns around and heads back. The chiva terminal is in a dangerous part of town; ask your taxi driver to take you all the way into the parking area.

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PARQUE UCUMARÍ

Established in 1984 just outside the western boundaries of the Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados, this 42-sq-km reserve protects a rugged, forested land around the middle course of the Río Otún, about 30km southeast of Pereira. More than 185 species of bird have been recorded here.

From here you can hike up Río Otún, leading through a gorge to PNN Los Nevados. You can even get to Laguna del Otún (3950m) but it’s a steady, six- to eight-hour walk uphill. It’s possible to do the return trip within a day, though it’s a strenuous