Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [191]
The cabins at La Pastora (Map; 313 749 8354; dm/campsite per person COP$14,500/6000), at an elevation of 2500m, offer accommodations and budget meals. It has ecological paths traced through verdant hills and you can see the lush vegetation and spot some of the park’s rich wildlife. The guy who runs the place will build a bonfire and play his guitar at night.
To get here from Pereira, take the chiva to El Cedral (1950m). From here it’s a 5km, 2½-hour walk, or rent a horse (COP$15,000 to COP$20,000). The nature reserve is run by Grupos Ecológicos de Risaralda (GER; 331 865 5548) in Pereira.
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ARMENIA
6 / pop 245,000 / elev 1640
Armenia is the third wheel on the Coffee Axle, and feels that way. Devastated by an earthquake in 1999 that flattened much of the city center, Armenia has never fully recovered. The center of the city is makeshift – check out the hastily-reconstructed cathedral, made of prefab concrete slabs – and the de facto center has moved north of downtown, along Av Bolivar to Portal del Quindío, a large upscale mall.
Most travelers will pass through Armenia only long enough to change buses for Salento. Still, the city is good for a day trip – the new pedestrian mall that stretches along Carrera 14 makes for a pleasant stroll, and Parque de la Vida is worth a visit.
Armenia was founded in 1889, and in 1966 became the capital of the newly created Quindío department. Like its two larger neighbors, the city trades principally in coffee and students.
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Information
Bancolombia (at the bus station) Handy if you run short in Salento.
Hospital San Juan de Diós ( 749 3500; cnr Av Bolivar & Calle 17N)
JH Sistema ( 741 2695; Calle 21 No 14-29 piso 2; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10:30am-7pm Sun) This enormous internet cafe is just off Plaza de Bolívar. Also has numerous telephone cabins.
Portal del Quindío (Av Bolivar No 19N-46) This big mall has numerous ATMs. Several nearby banks change US dollars.
Red Central ( 741 4702; Calle 21 No 16-26; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat) Internet per hour COP$1400.
Tourist office (Corporación de Cultura y Turismo; 741 2991; www.quindioturistico.com; Plaza de Bolívar) On the ground floor of the Gobernación del Quindío building. Very helpful staff; lots of information.
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Festivals & Events
Desfile de Yipao (Oct) An important part of Armenia’s annual birthday party celebration is this fantastic parade, when the local working jeeps are loaded down with literally tons of plátano (plantain), coffee etc and paraded through town.
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Sights
Museo del Oro Quimbaya ( 749 8433; museoquimbaya@banrep.gov.co; Av Bolívar No 40N-80; admission free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) This is one of Colombia’s best gold museums, featuring an excellent collection of ceramics and gold artifacts of Quimbaya culture. It’s in the Centro Cultural, 5km northeast of the center. Grab bus 18, 36 or 27 northbound on Av Bolívar (COP$1100), or take a taxi (COP$5000).
Parque de la Vida ( 746 2302; cnr Av Bolivar & Calle 7N; admission COP$1000) This large city park is north of town on Av Bolívar. There are waterfalls, several small lakes, forest areas and gardens, and kiosks selling food and drink.
Plaza de Bolívar is home to the Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción, the city’s new concrete cathedral.
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Tours
Millenium Turs ( 301 288 0910, 313 658 2123; milleniumturs@hotmail.com) Experts in Quindío and Armenia, this small tour agency, which is run out of a private home, specializes in midrange and top-end tour packages. It employs bilingual guides.
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Sleeping
Hotel Casa Real ( 741 4550; Carrera 18 No 18-36; s/d COP$24,000/35,000) Among Armenia’s cheap hotels, this is the best of a bad lot. The rooms are small and quite basic, and many don’t have windows.
Hotel Bolívar Plaza ( 741 0083; www.bolivarplaza.com; Calle 21 No 14-17; s/d/tr COP$113,000/145,000/180,000;