Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [208]
Museo Guillermo Valencia ( 820 6160; Carrera 6 No 2-69; admission COP$2000) is dedicated to the Popayán-born poet who once lived here. The late-18th-century building is full of period furniture, paintings, old photos and documents related to the poet and his son, Guillermo León Valencia, who was Colombia’s president from 1962 to 1966.
It is worth strolling past the early-20th-century Teatro Guillermo Valencia (cnr Calle 3 & Carrera 7). Ask nicely at the box office and they may give you an ad-hoc tour.
Located just next door to the theater is the neoclassical Panteón de los Próceres (Carrera 7), which shelters the remains of Popayán’s most illustrious sons, including General Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera and botanist Francisco José de Caldas (1770–1816).
Just north of the historic center, two unusual bridges cross the small Río Molino. The small one, Puente de la Custodia, also frequently called Puente Chiquita (Little Bridge), was constructed in 1713 to allow priests to cross the river to bring the holy orders to the sick of this poor northern suburb. About 160 years later, the solid 240m-long 11-arch Puente del Humilladero was built alongside the old bridge, and is still in use.
Just east of the historic center you’ll find the Museo de Historia Natural ( 820 9861; Carrera 2 No 1A-25; admission COP$3000; 8am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun). One of the best of its kind in the country, it’s noted for its extensive collection of insects, butterflies and, in particular, stuffed birds.
The Capilla de Belén, a chapel set on a hill just east of the city center, offers good views over the town. El Morro de Tulcán, a hill topped with an equestrian statue of the town’s founder, provides even better vistas. It’s said to be the site of a pre-Columbian pyramid and is a good place to watch the sunset.
The 10-hectare private nature reserve Las Ardillas ( 830 5555, 310 829 7188; www.canopylasardillas.com; admission COP$20,000-25,000; 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) has six canopy lines totaling 1200m that you can ride. There’s a swimming pool and sauna, and a restaurant serves drinks and snacks. There are also several nearby waterfalls along the Río Honda you can visit. The reserve is 8km south of Popayán. Take any bus bound for Timbío (COP$1000, 20 minutes) and get off at the Mi Bohío gas station. From here’s it’s a 2.4km walk to the actual site.
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Festivals & Events
Popayán’s Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations are world-famous, especially the nighttime processions on Maundy Thursday and Good Friday. Thousands of believers and tourists from all over come to take part in this religious ceremony and the accompanying festival of religious music. Hotel prices quadruple at this time; book well in advance.
In the first week of September the city plays host to the Congreso Nacional Gastronómico (www.corporaciongastronomicapopayan.com). Every year top chefs from a different country are invited to come and cook up a storm. Admission to all of the week’s events costs COP$260,000.
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Sleeping
Casa Familiar Turística ( 824 4853; Carrera 5 No 2-07; dm/s/d COP$12,000/14,000/28,000) The main hostel in town before Hosteltrail arrived, the Colombian owners offer budget beds in their colonial building. There’s hot water and laundry facilities, and two big, friendly dogs.
Hosteltrail ( 831 7871, 314 696 0805; www.hosteltrail.com; Carrera 11 No 4-16; dm COP$15,000, s/d with bathroom COP$35,000/40,000, s/d without bathroom COP$25,000/30,000; ) This new Scottish-owned hostel is the budget traveler’s choice in Popayán. In a concrete building on the edge of the colonial center, the owners have gone out of their way to make the it comfortable, and are an excellent source of local information. Wi-fi, TV/DVD, luggage storage and kitchen facilities are available.
Hotel Los Balcones ( 824 2030; hotellosbalcones@emtel.net.com; Carrera 7 No 2-75; s/d/apt COP$53,000/75,000/111,100; ) Climb 200-year-old stone stairs to your room in this 18th-century