Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [209]
Hotel La Plazuela ( 824 1084; hotellaplazuela@hotmail.com; Calle 5 No 8-13; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast COP$165,000/230,000/294,000/359,000) In a beautiful, whitewashed mansion complete with a lovely arcaded courtyard, this small but classy hotel was fully refurbished after the 1983 quake, and still has much of the original, antique furniture. Ask for a room facing one of the interior courtyards, they are quieter.
Hotel Dann Monasterio ( 824 2191; www.hotelesdann.com; Calle 4 No 10-14; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$230,000/290,000/385,000, ste incl breakfast COP$340,000-780,000; ) This Franciscan monastery-turned-hotel offers large, elegantly appointed rooms around a vast, arcaded courtyard. There’s a pool in the back garden. Prices include a free round of golf at the local club campestre.
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Eating
A local specialty is empanada de pipián, empanadas served with a spicy satay-style peanut sauce. Be sure to try a champú or lulada on the main square.
Restaurante Vegetariano Naturaleza y Vida ( 822 1118; Carrera 8 No 7-19; mains COP$2800; 7am-8pm Mon-Sat) This nothing-special veggie restaurant will do if you’re in a bind. Sometimes serves veggie burgers.
La Cave ( 316 753 7670; Calle 4 No 2-07; mains COP$7000-18,000; breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, breakfast & lunch Sat & Sun) This French restaurant has French food and service to match (that is, the food is good, the service can be a little snooty). It does awesome sandwiches, such as chicken cordon bleu or pork with raisins, and also serves pasta, steak and savory crepes.
La Pizzarra ( 831 1313; Carrera 13 No 6-17B, Valencia; pizza COP$15,000-20,000; 3pm-11pm) Cartoons with pizza punchlines adorn the walls of this top-notch pizza parlor. Located just outside the colonial center, the low prices represent great value. Try gourmet options such as chicken, olives and sun-dried tomatoes. Delivery is an extra COP$1000.
La Cosecha ( 821 5628; cnr Carrera 11 & Calle 3N; mains COP$15,000-23,000; noon-11pm) This reliable grill restaurant does great beef and chicken dishes on an open-air grill, and has Club Colombia on tap.
Lonchería La Viña ( 824 0602; Calle 4 No 7-79; 9am-midnight) The sister restaurant to La Cosecha. Serves the same menu but with far less atmosphere.
Restaurante Italiano ( 824 0607; Calle 4 No 8-83; mains COP$7500-35,000; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Swing open the saloon doors of this Swiss-owned Italian joint and you’ll find great pizza and pasta, and a decent wine list. If the prices put you off, go for the set meal (COP$7500), one of the best we’ve had in Colombia.
El Quijote ( 823 4104; Calle 10N No 8-14; mains COP$12,000-25,000; lunch & dinner) On the highway outside of town is the best restaurant in Popayán. Quijote does great grilled meat, fantastic salads and has live guitar music on the weekend. The huge outdoor patio faces a small park. Well worth the short taxi ride.
Los Quingos de Belén ( 822 1256; www.losquingos.com; Calle 5 No 0-13; mains COP$15,000-22,000) This is the place to come for typical regional specialties, including bandeja paísa (platter of sausage, beans, egg, rice and arepa) and, on the weekends, sancocho and ajiaco. There’s salsa on the stereo, a breezy outdoor dining area to relax on, and cocktails and pizza.
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Drinking
CAFES
There are numerous cafes in the center popular with local students. Check out Kaldivia Café ( 820 5334; Calle 5 No 5-63; 8:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat), which roasts its own coffee and does great iced coffee drinks. Madeira ( 839 4192; cnr Calle 3 & Carrera 5; 9am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 2-8:30pm Sat) hosts live music on Saturday and serves coffee in tiny earthenware cups.
BARS
Most of Popayán’s nightlife clusters outside of town on the highway. Be sure to check out CC Campanario (www.campanariopopayan.com; Carrera 9 No 24AN-21; 9am-1am). This monster