Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [213]
At the entrance to the park is the Museo Arqueológico ( 8am-5pm Tue-Sun), which features smaller statues, pottery, utensils, jewelry and other objects, along with interesting background information about the San Agustín culture.
Besides the various clusters of statues (called mesitas) is the Fuente de Lavapatas. Carved in the rocky bed of the stream, it is a complex labyrinth of ducts and small, terraced pools decorated with images of serpents, lizards and human figures. Archeologists believe the baths were used for ritual ablutions and the worship of aquatic deities.
From here, the path winds uphill to the Alto de Lavapatas, the oldest archeological site in San Agustín. You’ll find a few tombs guarded by statues, and get a panoramic view over the surrounding countryside.
ALTO DE LOS ÍDOLOS
Located across the Río Magdalena 4km southwest of San José de Isnos (a clutch of houses 26km from the town of San Agustín), this is the second-most important archeological park (admission COP$7000; 8am-4pm) in the region. It’s home to the largest statue (7m) in the San Agustín area.
ALTO DE LAS PIEDRAS
This site is 7km north of Isnos and has tombs lined with stone slabs painted red, black and yellow. One of the most famous statues, known as Doble Yo, is here; look carefully as there are actually four figures carved in this statue. You’ll also find an intriguing statue of a female figure in an advanced state of pregnancy.
EL TABLÓN, LA CHAQUIRA, LA PELOTA & EL PURUTAL
These four sites are relatively close to each other, so they can be seen in one trip. Most people visit as part of a horseback-riding tour. Don’t miss La Chaquira with divinities carved into the mountain face and overlooking the stunning gorge of the Río Magdalena.
LAGUNA DEL MAGDALENA
You can trek on horseback to the birthplace of the Río Magdalena (3327m), 60km from San Agustín. The region was historically infested by guerrillas but is now considered safe. It’s not a common trip. Tatacoa Aventura (right) and Finca El Maco (right) may be able to organize it for you. Expect to pay around COP$150,000 per person for the trek. The driest times of the year to visit are August and September, and January and February.
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
There are several more archeological sites to see if you are not in a hurry, including La Parada, Quinchana, El Jabón, Naranjos and Quebradillas.
Apart from its archeological wealth, the region is also noted for its natural beauty, and features two spectacular waterfalls, Salto de Bordones and Salto de Mortiño. It’s also worth a walk or ride to El Estrecho, where the Río Magdalena passes through 2.2m narrows. All these sights are accessible by road.
Nearby farmers come to buy and sell at San Agustín’s market, held on Monday. It’s a raucous scene with few tourists. Besides fruit, vegetables and panela (dried sugarcane juice) you’ll find clothing, shoes and bags at budget prices. If you miss the Monday market, head for La Galería (cnr Calle 3 & Carrera 11; 5am-4pm). It’s open the rest of the week, but is more subdued.
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Activities
Many tour operators offer horseback-riding activities in the region. Your accommodations venue will most likely also have great information. Ask at the operators and hotels listed for further details.
WHITE-WATER RAFTING
Two companies offer rafting on the Río Magdalena. They offer similar trips at similar prices. There are half-day tours (COP$40,000 per person) with rapids Class II to IV for novices, and full-day, Class V tours (COP$100,000 to COP$120,000) for experienced pros. Minimum four people per group.
The French owner of Magdalena Rafting ( 311 271 5333; www.magdalenarafting.com) has 20 years experience guiding in Europe. He offers guide services in English, French and Spanish, and prices include wetsuit rental. He can also organize two-