Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [214]
Colombian-owned Tatacoa Aventura ( 877 9422, 311 492 6571; www.tatacoaventura.com) offers a similar service. Guides speak Spanish only, and it doesn’t have wetsuits. It can also organize horseback-riding trips in the region, and other activities.
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Sleeping
Try to make decisions about where to stay and eat independent of bus and taxi drivers, tour operators and locals, who are frequently known to make suggestions to travelers in return for kickbacks with some local owners. Travelers are then charged inflated prices. You’ll enjoy your time in San Agustín more if you stay outside the center of town.
Finca El Maco ( 837 3437, 311 271 4802; www.elmaco.ch; campsite per person COP$7000, hammock COP$10,000, dm COP$14,000, r per person COP$18,000-20,000; ) Set 1km outside of town in the countryside, this Swiss-owned hostel is the budget choice in San Agustín. There are a variety of cabins set amid a pretty garden. The on-site restaurant serves homemade organic yoghurt and cheese, wholemeal bread, green salads, and an excellent curry. The owner runs a small tour company, and can organize trips in the region. Take the road to the Parque Archaeológico and turn right at the Hotel Yalconia. From here it’s a 400m-walk uphill, past the public swimming pool.
Casa de François ( 314 358 2930; www.lacasadefrancois.com; dm/s/d COP$14,000/16,000/32,000) Set in a garden on a hill just above town and with views of the hills, this funky hostal is built principally of glass bottles embedded in concrete. Accommodations are basic but clean, and you can use the kitchen.
Finca El Cielo ( 313 493 7446; www.fincaelcielo.com; Via al Estrecho; r per person COP$40,000) A few hundred meters after the Anacaona is this pretty posada. Built of guadua and with tremendous views out over the surrounding, misty green hills, it gets far few visitors than it deserves. The friendly owner and his wife live on the ground floor and prepare good home-cooked meals with advance notice.
Hacienda Anacaona ( 837 9390; www.anacaona-colombia.com; Via al Estrecho; r per person COP$130,000-180,000) This long-established colonial-style hotel caters principally to Colombians. During the week prices drop to as low as COP$25,000 per person. Frequent colectivos from town can drop you here (COP$1200). The hotel is set amid a well-maintained garden and has good views.
There are numerous budget hotels in the center of town. Your best bet is Residencias El Jardín ( 837 3455; www.hosteltrail.com/eljardin; Carrera 11 No 4-10; r per person COP$15,000-18,000), or try the Hotel Colonial ( 837 3159; Calle 3 No 11-25; r per person $10,000-15,000).
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Eating
Surabhi ( 837 3336; Calle 5 No 1409; set meal COP$4000; 8am-8pm) Run by a former hotel chef, this small restaurant produces a very good Colombian set meal. The juices are excellent, and there’s actually something resembling a salad on your plate. Great value.
Restaurante Brahama ( 301 417 1077; Calle 5 No 15-11; set meal COP$4000; 8am-9pm) The place to come if you’re in dire need of a vegetarian meal. The thick chocolate pancakes are reportedly excellent, too.
Donde Richard ( 312 432 6399; Via al Parque Arqueológico; mains COP$14,000-16,000; noon-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun) This grill restaurant on the road to the Parque Archaeológico does the best food in town. The asado huilense, the local specialty of slow-cooked, marinated pork, is not to be missed. A great spot for lunch on the way back from the park.
Pizza Manía ( 311 271 4788; Carrera 13 No 3-43; pizzas COP$14,000-24,000, lasagna COP$6500; 5-10pm Wed-Mon) Owned by an expat German woman, this small shopfront sells great, freshly made pizza. She even makes her own chorizo, and on weekends, lasagna from scratch.
El Fogón ( 837 3431; Calle 5 No 14-30; lunch & dinner) The set menu at lunch time is good value (COP$4000) but dinner (COP$14,000) is overpriced. El Fogón also serves as a central landmark in the town.
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Drinking