Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [223]
Every July at the new moon, university groups and Colombian stargazing enthusiasts congregate here for a four-day, three-night Fiesta de Estrellas (Star Party).
Below the lookout point are the Laberintos del Cusco (Cusco Labyrinths). The most striking landscapes can be seen here. As you stand on the front porch of the visitors center, walk down to the main road and turn left. At the red-roofed bar (100m) look for the trail that heads downhill. Follow the trail and turn left at the green sign. Follow this path out to the main road.
Four kilometers past the observatory is Ventanas, so named for its commanding views out over the desert. Another 5km takes you to Los Hoyos, where there are cabins (see right), a private swimming hole, and a less-impressive walk.
Javier Fernando Rua Restrepo ( 310 465 6765; www.tatacoa-astronomia.com), a local astronomer, can show you around the sky from the rooftop of the visitors center. He uses two tripod telescopes, and is an expert at taking photos through the lens with your digital camera. He also rents two-man tents (COP$10,000).
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Sleeping & Eating
There are several basic hotels in town but most travelers prefer to spend the night in the desert itself. Bring earplugs – the roosters crow all night long.
Built in the 1500s, the ancient flagstones of the Hotel La Casona ( 879 7636; Calle 3 No 3-60; dm/d per person COP$15,000/20,000) have seen better days. Two private rooms are used principally by local amorous couples. Two big dorm rooms cater to large groups. There’s also the brightly painted La Portada ( 311 833 2386; Carrera 2 No 7-07; per person COP$15,000) on the edge of town on the road to the desert.
The best eats in town are Sol y Sombra ( 879 7582; Carrera 4A No 5-86; meals COP$4000-5000; breakfast, lunch & dinner) and Restaurante Monterrey ( 310 315 5063; Carrera 4 No 4-43; meals COP$4000-5000; breakfast, lunch & dinner).
In the desert, all accommodations are basically four concrete walls with a corrugated tin roof. All serve meals.
Behind the observatory is a large campground (campsite per person COP$2000, shower COP$1000, toilet per day COP$500) with room for 40 tents. You can also rent a hammock for COP$7000 and string it up outside on the Greek pillars on the front porch. The building is powered by solar panels.
Doña Elbira ( 312 559 8576; s/d COP$15,000/30,000) has five cabins scattered across the desert scrub, about 1km after the observatory. Across the way is Rincón de Cabrito, a food stand that opens on the weekend and sells goat’s milk, cheese, arequipe (a sweet dessert of milk and sugar) and other goat-milk based desserts.
In Los Hoyos Estadero Los Hoyos ( 311 536 5027; s/d/tr COP$20,000/30,000/40,000) has two rooms in a single cabin. For COP$3000 you can walk down and bathe in the swimming hole; on weekends a small bar nearby serves beer.
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Getting There & Away
Vans hop the 37km between Neiva and Villavieja (COP$5000, one hour) from 5am to 7:30pm. They leave with a minimum of five passengers; there are frequent services in the early morning and late afternoon, but during the day you could wait an hour or two.
There are frequent services between Bogotá and Neiva (COP$20,000, five hours). Buses run between Pitalito (near San Agustín) and Neiva every hour or so (COP$20,000, five hours).
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Getting Around
There is one moto-taxi ( 310 301 9756) in town. A true monopolist, he’ll charge you COP$15,000 to COP$20,000 to take up to three people to the observatory. You could walk the 4km, but there’s no shade, shelter or water between the town and the observatory.
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Pacific Coast
* * *
CHOCÓ
BAHÍA SOLANO
AROUND BAHÍA SOLANO
EL VALLE
NUQUÍ
GUACHALITO
SOUTH COAST
BUENAVENTURA
AROUND BUENAVENTURA
SAN