Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [224]
GUAPI
PARQUE NACIONAL NATURAL (PNN) ISLA GORGONA
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This is where the jungle meets the sea. It’s a wild, untamed area, drenched in up to 10m of rain per year. The beaches, unlike those of the Caribbean, are fine, gray sand. There is only one road to the interior, from Buenaventura to Cali; all other transport is by light plane and boat.
The Pacific is famous for its whale-watching. Between July and October whales come from as far away as Antarctica to calve and nurse their young. You can see them all along this coast. In places they come so close to the shore you can spot them from the beach.
The incredible marine life here also attracts deep-sea fishers and adventurous scuba divers. Bahía Solano is famous for its fishing – rated among the best the world – and catch-and-release anglers come year-round to try their luck with blue marlin and sailfish. Likewise, Isla Malpelo is famous for some of the most challenging and rewarding diving in the world.
There are a full range of resorts on this coast, though none are typical beach retreats. The beaches near Bahía Solano, El Valle and outside Nuquí, in particular, all host top-notch resorts. Travelers on a budget should check out Ladrilleros, a coastal town near Buenaventura with a fine beach and good surf, and San Cipriano, a tiny hamlet hidden in the jungle accessible only by a motorcycle-driven railway trolley.
The population is mostly descended from African slaves who once toiled here. There remain a few isolated pockets of indigenous peoples; there is some racial tension between the two. The isolation on this coast has allowed the people to preserve much of their culture – the traditional cuisine here is famous. But the area’s relative isolation also means there is poor infrastructure and poverty is widespread.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Scuba dive with whales off Isla Gorgona during whale-watching season or join a whale-watching tour at El Valle or Ensenada de Utría
Surf the Pacific’s 2m-waves at Ladrilleros
Swim with hundreds of hammerhead sharks at Colombia’s most difficult scuba dive destination, Isla Malpelo (p283
Linger amid tropical gardens on the black-sand beaches of Guachalito (p278
Go catch-and-release sportfishing for blue marlin and sailfish near Bahía Solano
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Climate
It rains a lot here. Don’t come planning to sunbathe. Rain is lightest from January to March, and heaviest from August to November. The average temperature is 28°C up and down the coast, but often feels much cooler because of the rain.
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National, State & Regional Parks
Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Isla Gorgona and PNN Isla Malpelo are both protected marine parks boasting excellent diving. PNN Ensenada de Utría, halfway between El Valle and Nuquí, attracts whales in season, which play in a narrow bay, just a few hundred meters offshore.
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Dangers & Annoyances
The Pacific coast, especially the Chocó, remains on the front lines of Colombia’s civil conflict. The beaches in the Chocó were heavily patrolled by Colombian marines at our visit, with marines outnumbering tourists three-to-one. We felt safe, but conditions here are liable to change, and you may like to confirm things are still safe before planning a visit.
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Getting There & Away
Only the Cali–Buenaventura highway links the Pacific coast to the rest of Colombia. Most travelers arrive by light plane from Cali or Medellín. Click here for details on air travel to the Pacific Coast. It’s also possible, but difficult, to arrive from Ecuador or Panama by cargo boat. Click here for more details.
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Getting Around
There are no roads along the Pacific coast. Boat travel is your only option for traveling in the region.
CHOCÓ
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The Chocó is one of the wettest places on earth. On average the Chocó coast averages 16m to 18m of rain per year. This fact defines the region, the people and its culture. When