Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [225]
Traveling on the Chocó coast is like wandering through a ghost town. Where did all the people go? Pre-2001 this was a major tourist destination. Then La Violencia (the violence to which Colombia is prone, which comes and goes at various times in various areas) came to the Chocó, substantially destabilizing the area. Consequently dozens of hotels and resorts are empty, begging for guests.
Conditions have recently improved dramatically, and the area is quite safe despite the large military presence in all of the towns along the coast. In some cases the Colombian marines outnumber tourists three-to-one. They are friendly and if you are a foreigner will take particular care that nothing happens to you. All the same, if men with guns unnerve you, you may not enjoy your time here. For a complete listing of Chocó beach resorts, see www.hotelesmarselva.com.
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BAHÍA SOLANO
4 / pop 8000
Bahía Solano is the largest settlement on the Chocó coast. It is famous for its deep-sea sportfishing – some of the best in the world – and as a base to go whale-watching (Click here). The town itself consists of half a dozen muddy, unpaved streets, and holds little of interest. However, there are numerous good beach resorts a short boat ride away, where you can go surfing, scuba-diving, organize whale-watching trips, or go deep-sea fishing.
The town sits at the mouth of the Río Jella and faces north into the ocean. It is surrounded by hills. All the hotels in the town itself are down by the waterfront in Barrio El Carmen. There is no beach in or near town.
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Information
There is no tourist information office in town. Pick up a copy of the new quarterly La Guía de Bahía for a map, tourist info and tide tables.
EMERGENCY
Police ( emergency 112, 682 7082, 682 7057) On the waterfront.
INTERNET ACCESS
Bahia.com ( 312 457 6292; per hour COP$2400; 7am-9pm) Fastest internet in town. International calls COP$500 per minute via Skype. Owns its own generator. Opposite Hotel Bahía.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Beatriz Argotte ( 310 372 2988) The only dentist in town. In the back room of Bahia.com.
Drogas Bahía ( 682 7064) Pharmacy that stocks the basics. Opposite Hotel Bahía.
Hospital Julio Figueroa Villa ( emergency 112, 682 7266, 682 7070, 682 7884; 24hr)
MONEY
Banco Agrario de Colombia ( 682 7522; 8am-2pm Mon-Fri) The only bank in town, with the only ATM on the Chocó coast. ATM dispenses maximum COP$400,000 per transaction, assuming the power grid is working. After long weekends it’s sometimes empty.
Servicio Inmediato Nacional ( 682 7001) You can receive domestic wire transfers here. Opposite the hospital.
POST
Deprisa ( 682 7033)
Servientrega ( 682 7835) Opposite Banco Agrario.
VISA INFORMATION
Capitanio de Puerto ( 682 7074) Register with the harbormaster if arriving under your own sail. On the waterfront.
DAS (Departamento Administrativo de Seguridad; 682 6984, 313 745 8611) On the waterfront; opened in 2007.
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Sights & Activities
HIKING
Near the south end of town flows the Quebrada Chocolatal. You can hike upriver about half an hour to the Cascada Chocolatal that empties into an icy-cold swimming hole. The jungle towers over you on both sides of the riverbank, in a cascade of flowers and birdsong. On the same road a narrow, overgrown path leads upward to a small shrine to the Virgin Mary. It’s a 15-minute walk each way that offers great views over the town and the beach.
You can also walk to Playa Mecana, a 5km-long beach strewn with coconut palms. You must leave at or before low tide (mareada baja). It’s 1½ hours each way. You can also organize a boat ride up the adjacent Río Mecana in a wooden canoe for around COP$5000 per person. A recommended guide is Antonio, a member of the local Emberá tribe. His guide services