Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [233]
Pijibá Lodge ( in Medellín 474 5221; www.pijibalodge.com; r per person COP$138,000) The three duplex cabins of Pijibá are right next door to El Cantil. The gardens are nice but not the best in Guachalito, and it caters to couples by pushing two single beds together. Still, there are hammocks out on the deck, windsurf gear and surfboards can be rented and whale-watching trips can be organized. The food here has an excellent reputation.
El Cantil ( 252 0707, in Medellín 352 0729; www.elcantil.com; r per person COP$180,000) The most luxurious hotel on this beach, El Cantil has six duplex cabins, and is surrounded by papaya plants and coconut palms. A small hydroelectric plant produces power for the restaurant and bar; the cabins are entirely without electricity. Candles are provided, or bring your flashlight (torch). The restaurant (which is famous for its food) sits a short walk up the hill, giving you great views to spot whales in season. Diving expeditions can be organized and surfing guides can show you where the best spots are. The hotel runs the ‘Surfing the Jungle’ (www.nuquilatinprocolombia.com) surfing competition in November.
Cabañas Ixtlán ( 683 6045; r without bathroom per person COP$150,000) A short climb uphill after El Cantil is this small posada. It’s built of free stone walls and doors of damagua (a tree bark that when dried appears like leather) with concrete and wood floors. There are four rooms with one shared bathroom; the shower juts out into the open air, allowing you to shower in the rain. There are new box-spring mattresses, and great views from the top deck through ripe coconuts palms of the sea, where you may spot whales in season.
Piedra Piedra ( 315 596 3386; www.piedrapiedra.com r per person COP$140,000) A little bit past Ixtlán is Piedra Piedra. Set up the hill above a rocky outcrop into the sea (hence the name) amid a fruit and vegetable garden, the rooms consist of saggy mattresses and damagua privacy screens. The 1st-floor room has a little more privacy. Kayaks can be rented.
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Getting There & Away
There are regular boat services from Nuquí to Guachalito. On Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays the fast boat (COP$18,000, 30 minutes) leaves Arocia (west of Guachalito) at 6am, passing by the hotels around 6:30am to 7am, returning from Nuquí around 1pm to 2pm. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays a slower boat services the same route (COP$16,000, one hour).
SOUTH COAST
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BUENAVENTURA
2 / pop 200,000
The largest (and only) city on this coast, Buenaventura is Colombia’s busiest port. More than 60% of Colombia’s legal exports pass through these docks; much of her illegal exports pass through here too. The city has two parts. The main docks and city center are on an island in the bay, with slums stretching east on the continental side. A bridge connects the two.
The only reason to come here is transport. Most tourist traffic runs through the muelle turístico (tourist wharf). This part of town is quite safe, and there are many restaurants and hotels that cluster nearby. Cargo boats depart from El Piñal, just under the bridge.
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Information
BanCafé Bank; just outside tourist wharf.
Ciber P@cífico ( 240 1409; per hr COP$2000); 8am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 1-8pm Sun) Internet and phone calls, just outside the tourist wharf.
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Sleeping
Hotel Titanic ( 241 2046; Calle 1A No 2A-55; s COP$45,000-50,000, d/ste COP$60,000/85,000; ) One block from the entrance to the tourist wharf is this five-story hotel. All rooms have cable TV, air-con and ethernet wall outlets. The rooftop bar-restaurant has good views over the water. Many rooms lack windows; suites accommodate up to five people.
Hotel Estelar Estación ( 243 4070; www.hotelesestelar.com; Calle 2 No 1A-08; s/d COP$259,000/294,000, ste COP$319,000-354,000; ) The best hotel in town is a flashback to Colombia’s flapper days. Built in the roaring ’20s and since refurbished,