Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [234]
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QUIBDÓ & ISTMINA
The Chocó has long aroused our curiosity, and we were looking forward to visiting Quibdó and Istmina for this guidebook. There is a speedboat on the Río Atrato that takes mostly Colombian travelers downriver to Turbo on the Caribbean coast. It is also possible, but far more dangerous, to take a cargo boat from neighboring Istmina down the Río San Juan to the Pacific coast, not far from Buenaventura.
At the time of our research, however, we were specifically warned by the Colombian military not to visit the region, as they could not guarantee the safety of foreign travelers. French-Colombian politician Ingrid Betancourt had just been rescued (Click here), and FARC were on the warpath; the region around Quibdó and Istmina has long been a lawless region, with the paramilitaries and FARC sharing de facto power.
This may change. We hope it does. If you decide to go you should check current conditions and exercise great caution. While the two towns remain nominally in control of the Colombian military, the badly pitted roads and both rivers are plagued by (whatever their overt political persuasion) thugs and bandits. Malaria is also endemic in the region; but while repellent and a mosquito net can guard against malaria, there is no good antidote to a gun pointed at your head.
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Eating
Buenaventura’s market, La Galería, is famous for its food. A dozen stalls surround the 2nd floor of the market. Many are owned by costeña grandmothers, preparing sancocho de pescado (fish in coconut milk) as their foremothers have for centuries. The market is a bustling, crowded chaos of butchers, fishmongers, greengrocers and vendors selling pescado ahumado (smoked fish). The usual assortment of cutpurses haunt the market, so take care with your belongings.
A taxi here from the tourist wharf will cost around COP$3000. Specify that you want to go to La Galería in Pueblo Nuevo.
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Getting There & Away
BUS
There are frequent services between Cali and Buenaventura (COP$18,000, three to four hours). From Cali sit on the left side of the bus for the best views.
BOAT
Tourist speedboat services heading north and south depart from the tourist wharf. Cargo boats leave from El Piñal.
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AROUND BUENAVENTURA
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Juanchaco & Ladrilleros
2 / pop 3500
An hour’s boat ride north of Buenaventura are Juanchaco and neighboring Ladrilleros. Juanchaco faces Bahía Malaga and accumulates a fine collection of Buenaventura’s garbage on its beaches. Ladrilleros, on the other side of the peninsula, faces the roaring open waves of the Pacific Ocean. Its 6km of gray sand are clean as far as the eye can see. The waves aren’t bad either – during the rainy season (or rather, rainier season, August to November) the ocean comes crashing in 2m- to 3m-high waves.
Ladrilleros is a popular weekend getaway spot for people from Cali; during the week you will likely have the place to yourself.
Two large military bases nearby guard both the shipping channels and the tourist areas. The region was considered safe when we were there.
INFORMATION
There are information booths in both towns, sometimes staffed by student volunteers from Buenaventura. Several work for local hotels so take their advice with a grain of salt.
There are no ATMs here, and few people accept credit cards. You’ll find the nearest ATM is just outside the muelle turístico in Buenaventura.
MiFono ( 521 5201; per hr COP$2500; noon-9pm Mon-Sat) At the edge of Juanchaco on the road to Ladrilleros. Only internet in the area. You can also make phone calls here.
ACTIVITIES
Surfing
The best time for surfing is the wet(ter) season (August to November). Pedro Romero ( 320 666 2491; Caba