Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [235]
SLEEPING
There are a dozen or more hotels in Ladrilleros. Most are pretty basic. There’s nothing top end.
El Morro ( 334 2998, 310 386 8100; r per person incl two meals COP$45,000) At the far end of the beach, this small hotel is the undisputed champion of sea views in Ladrilleros. The rooms are basic, but have private bathrooms and fans. Their bar is open to the public, and a great spot for a beer and a sunset.
Aguamarina Cabañas ( 246 0285, 311 728 3213; www.reservaaguamarina.com; cabañas per person COP$40,000) Formerly known as Cabañas Carvajal, these attractive two-story cabins sit perched on the ocean bluff. There’s a dirt volleyball court, and picnic benches where you can sit and admire the views. The new owner also offers guide services in the surrounding region, including budget whale-watching tours.
Hotel Palma Real ( 246 0335; www.hotelpalmarealcolombia.com; r per person COP$60,000-70,000; ) This upscale hotel is popular with caleños on romantic getaways. There’s a Jacuzzi and a pretty pool, and a poolside bar serves drinks and plays loud music. There are only ocean glimpses through the dense jungle. The entrance is on the beach next to that of El Morro.
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BORDER CROSSING: TUMACO
This small town is of interest only to those wanting to cross into Ecuador by sea. It’s a long, difficult journey with no perceivable pay-off. We’ve never known or heard of anyone who bothered – we certainly didn’t. There continues to be small pockets of guerrilla activity along the Ecuadorean side of the border, although the risk is low.
Cargo boats leave from El Piñal in Buenaventura (Click here) bound for Tumaco (COP$60,000, 20 hours). There are also buses from Popayán Click here and Pasto, but there is guerrilla activity in this part of Nariño. Stamp out in the DAS office ( 727 2010) in Tumaco. There are buses from here to Invili, where you must cross the Río Mira. Then there are chivas to Monte Alta (one hour), where small boats can take you to San Lorenzo, Ecuador (1½ hours). Stamp in here. From here’s it’s five hours to Esmeraldas.
There are reports that a cargo boat now offers overnight passage on Fridays from Buenaventura to Esmeraldas. Ask around at the port on Isla El Morro. You’ll find budget accommodations on Playa El Morro, 1km from the port.
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EATING & DRINKING
Half a dozen basic eateries serve budget meals of fish and rice. La Zarca and Doña Francia are considered the two best in town. Order early in the day and they can prepare lobster or shrimp ceviche (seafood cooked and served with mayonnaise and ketchup).
On a bluff overlooking the sea, the Templo del Ritmo ( 246 0104; Thu-Sat) cranks up the volume on weekends, when caleños come to party.
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Getting There & Away
The most reliable boat operator on the muelle turístico is Asturias ( 242 4620, 242 3696, 313 767 2864; barcoasturias@yahoo.com). Its two boats offer daily services to Juanchaco (COP$50,000 return, 1¼ hour) at 10am, 1pm and 4pm, returning at 8am, 1pm and 4pm. The return fare is good for 15 days.
From Juanchaco it’s 2.5km to Ladrilleros. The road loops around a naval airbase that divides the two towns. You can walk (30 minutes) or hop on a motorcycle (COP$2000, five minutes). Large groups can haggle with the jeep drivers who hang out at the end of the Juanchaco beach (COP$20,000-ish).
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SAN CIPRIANO
2 / pop 500
This tiny town is as famous for its mode of arrival as for the town itself. Situated on the little-used Cali–Buenaventura railroad and 15km from the nearest road, residents have jury-rigged railroad trolley carts to shuttle themselves to and from Córdoba, the nearest town. Some power their journey with long poles they use to push themselves along.