Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [236]
Return to beginning of chapter
* * *
PLAYA JUAN DE DIOS
Opposite Juanchaco at the mouth of Bahía Malaga are the secluded, rustic cabins of Hotel Arcoiris ( 314 888 1280; www.ecomun.org/playa.htm; dm/d incl meals COP$60,000/150,000, campsite per person incl meals COP$45,000). The ‘Hotel Rainbow’ is run by two Colombian hippies. There is no electricity, and therefore no television, music or lights after dark; there are driftwood bonfires at night. The beach is 200m long and receives a fair amount of plastic flotsam from Buenaventura. Large groups aren’t hosted so you are assured a peaceful stay. It has two kayaks you can rent, and offers tours in the nearby mangroves (COP$15,000, 1½ hours). Meals are freshly caught fish, and there is also good vegetarian fare. Beer is not always available, so if you want to drink you may want to bring something with you. You must take all your nonorganic waste with you as there is no garbage collection service.
Boat operator Asturias can drop you off on their way to Juanchaco (COP$32,000, one hour).
* * *
Return to beginning of chapter
Sights & Activities
The town is in the middle of the jungle on the Pacific side of the mountain range. A nearby river makes for a relaxing swim. You can go inner-tubing along much of its length, and there are several waterfalls you can walk to. On weekends the town fills up with Cali holidaymakers; during the week you’ll likely have the place to yourself.
La Fundación San Cipriano charges COP$1500 admission to the area.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sleeping & Eating
Half a dozen hotels offer extremely basic lodging. Most offer budget meals. On weekends a couple of bars blast out the music for partying caleños.
Cabañas Carvajal ( 320 644 8241; r per person COP$5000) Quite possibly the cheapest hotel in Colombia, Carvajal is also the backpacker’s choice in San Cipriano. It offers tours to a nearby waterfall for COP$5000 per person (2½ hours return); the local guides charge COP$25,000. Inner-tubing trips on the river (COP$5000) can also be organized. It involves a 1½-hour walk upriver and then you float back down to the hotel. The budget meals are reported to be excellent, and vegetarians can be catered for. It’s the first building on the right from where the trolley drops you off.
Hotel David ( 312 815 4051; r without bathroom per person COP$10,000) Several hundred meters after you pay your admission fee you’ll find the ‘best’ hotel in town: hard mattresses, shared bathrooms, serves food. Most of the rooms are doubles but there are also a few quads and twins.
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
From Cali, take any bus heading to Buenaventura and get off at the junction to Córdoba (COP$18,000, three hours). From here it’s a 1km walk downhill to the railway line. The posted return fare for a rail trolley to San Cipriano is COP$16,000. This is a ridiculous price. We had no trouble haggling a return fare of COP$10,000; sharper bargainers may go lower.
From Buenaventura, take the Ruta 5 bus marked Córdoba from the terminal (COP$2000, one hour). The bus runs every half hour or so. If you don’t want to walk back uphill you can grab this bus back to the junction for a few hundred pesos. Buenaventura taxis can also deliver you to Córdoba for COP$25,000 to COP$40,000.
Return to beginning of chapter
GUAPI
2 / pop 5000
This small fishing town is the main launching point for Isla Gorgona. It is famous for ceviche guapense (cooked seafood with mayonnaise and ketchup), and also for its artesanías – you’ll find handmade musical instruments and intricately wrought gold jewelry, plus the usual assortment of hand-woven goods.
The town itself holds little of interest. The main drag is Calle Segunda, paved in brick, where the locals go about their business. Those looking for boats headed north or south should go down to the waterfront where the various companies have open-air kiosks that sell