Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [257]
Traveler’s checks are neither well-known nor understood in Colombia. You’re better off bringing your bank card and getting cash from the ATM. If you must travel with traveler’s checks, make sure they are in US dollars, as you will get the best exchange rate. Do not bring checks in euros, pounds sterling, etc. Banks in major cities change US dollar traveler’s checks at rates 2% to 5% higher than the cash rate (though still not as good as just using your ATM card). Exchange rates vary from bank to bank, so shop around. Some banks charge a commission for changing checks.
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POST
Postal service in Colombia is expensive and largely inefficient. There is no government-run postal service and there are numerous private companies operating. These include Avianca (www.aviancaexpress.com), Adpostal (www.adpostal.gov.co), Deprisa (www.deprisa.com) and Servientrega (www.servientrega.com). Break open the piggy bank if you’re planning on sending postcards home: it’ll cost you around COP$10,000 per postcard.
If you want to receive a package in Colombia, you have a choice. The sender can ship via a courier like DHL, which guarantees fast, dependable delivery, but also guarantees Colombian customs will open the box and charge you an exorbitant duty (for example, we’ve heard of someone who got nailed for COP$80,000 for a shipment of used books). If you’re not in a hurry, have the package sent via regular, budget airmail (four to eight weeks). We have successfully received many packages in this way that would otherwise have incurred significant import duties.
The poste restante system in Colombia is not reliable. You’re better off contacting a hostel or hotel and asking them to hold onto a package for you. If you’re desperate you might try Avianca’s office in Bogotá (Your Name, c/o Lista de Correos Avianca, Edificio Avianca, Carrera 7 No 16-36, Bogotá). Mail is kept for one month. Courier companies do not accept mail sent to Lista de Correos.
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SHOPPING
Colombia is famous for its emeralds, leather goods, woolen ponchos, basket-weaving and, on the Pacific coast, gold jewelry.
Buying emeralds is difficult. Or rather, if you aren’t knowledgeable about these gemstones, you are unlikely to strike a good deal. Mined chiefly from the Muzo area, emeralds are sold in the flourishing emerald street market at the southwestern corner of Av Jiménez and Carrera 7 and nearby Plaza Rosario in Bogotá, where dozens of negociantes (traders) buy and sell stones – sometimes on the sidewalks.
The emerald industry has done a complete about-face from its ‘wild west’ days when criminal activity and questionable labor practices (including allegations of child labor) were associated with the mines. In 2005 the government abolished all tariffs and taxes on the mining of emeralds, which effectively ended the black market and its associated elements. Tourists can now safely buy emeralds in good conscience knowing they’re not supporting criminal gangs or violence in Colombia. Still, unless you know something about emeralds you are likely to pay too much .
Colombian handicrafts vary from region to region. Some areas and towns are famous for particular local crafts. Boyacá is the largest handicraft manufacturer, with excellent handwoven items, basketry and pottery. The Pacific coast also has an interesting selection of basketwork, plus the occasional blow-dart gun. Guapi is famous for its musical instruments, especially handmade drums. You may also find some good handwrought gold jewelry here. If you don’t make it to the Pacific coast, the Parque Artesanías in Cali is a good place to shop.
Pasto is known for its woodwork – decorative items covered with the barniz de Pasto, a kind of vegetable resin. Ceramic miniatures of chivas (traditional buses) have become a popular souvenir.
Hammocks are another tempting buy and come in plenty of regional variations, from the simple, practical hammocks made in Los Llanos to the elaborate chinchorros of the Guajiro people. Another well-known indígena product