Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [258]
Ruanas (Colombian woolen ponchos) are found in the colder parts of the Andean zone, where the climate justifies it. In many villages they are still made by hand with simple patterns and natural colors. Bogotá and Villa de Leyva are good places to buy them.
The best and most fashionable mochilas (a kind of woven handbag) are those of the Arhuaco from the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. They are not cheap, but are beautiful and usually of good quality.
Leather goods (mostly boots and bags) are a better buy. They are relatively cheap and are among the best in South America; the best selection is in Bogotá.
Be sure to keep receipts for any big ticket items like emeralds, electronics, etc. Foreign tourists may request a refund of the 16% IVA (sales tax) from the customs authorities when they leave the country.
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ONE WORD: PLASTICS
Colombia has some of the most innovative – and prolific – plastic surgeons in the world; just head to a high-end nightclub in Cali or Medellín to see their prodigious results. The boobs may not be real, but they sure are big. Throw in a little rhinoplasty, a dash of liposuction, some light dermal abrasion, and just a hint of dental reconstruction, and suddenly an evening at the mall starts to look like a Miss Universe pageant.
Because procedures in Colombia often cost about a third of what they would in the US or Europe, Colombia’s plastic surgeons are attracting a small flood of vanity tourists who come not to admire the Andes or Amazon but their own refurbished beauty. Many clinics even offer package deals, including hotels and airfare, sending visitors home with a fresh outlook on life, especially those who get Lasik (laser-assisted in-situ keratomileusis). Pioneered by Colombian eye surgeon José Barraquer and beginning in the 1940s, Lasik cures poor eyesight by reshaping the cornea with lasers. Colombia is considered a leader in the field.
Business has grown so quickly that the US State Department has issued advice specifically for Americans considering elective surgery in Colombia. They don’t discourage the practice, but they do suggest that you thoroughly research who your surgeon will be – sound advice to apply anywhere, of course.
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SOLO TRAVELERS
Travelers on their own are unlikely to have any problems traveling in Colombia. There are hostels in all major cities and many smaller locales, and you’ll often find yourself traveling with other foreigners you meet along the way.
If you are going to remote regions unfrequented by or unused to foreign visitors, or if you’re concerned about security in general, traveling with a friend will certainly ease your mind, and may lessen the likelihood of street crime.
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TELEPHONE & FAX
The telephone system in Colombia is modern and works well for both domestic and international calls. Telecom is the national provider; ETB and Orbitel offer competing services. Public telephones exist in cities and large towns, but they are few and far between, and many are out of order. For directory assistance or information call 123.
It is possible to call direct to just about anywhere in Colombia. The exception is if you’re using a cell phone: you cannot dial a cell phone from a landline (or vice versa). If you don’t have a cell, you can use one at a corner store (see right for more info). Landline phone numbers are seven digits countrywide, while cell-phone numbers are 10 digits. Area codes are single digits, and you’ll find them included immediately under the headings of the relevant destinations throughout this book.
All calls by default go through Telecom ( 09). However, you can specify Orbitel ( 05) or ETB ( 07) by dialing that prefix immediately before the number. There’s no need to worry much about this unless you’re in Colombia long enough to own and operate your own landline.
Colombia’s country code is 57. If you are dialing