Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [28]
For this reason bars and pubs as such do not really exist in Colombia. Music tends to be loud and the dance floor a central point of the architecture. Those wanting a quiet drink earlier in the evening may like to find an estanco, a small, streetside bar, often with no interior seating, that sells cheap beer to go or to drink at the small huddle of plastic chairs and tables.
As far as food goes, because of Colombia’s location at the equator, farmers harvest all year round, so there is little variation in ingredients throughout the year; there is no seasonal produce. That said, Colombians are fond of turkey at Christmas time, and natilla, a kind of sweet milk pudding, is the typical Christmas dessert. Buñuelos, although eaten throughout the year, are also a typical Christmas treat. They are made of small, white, curd cheese and rolled with flour into doughy balls, then deep-fried until golden brown.
During Semana Santa (Holy Week), it is customary to celebrate an abbreviated form of Lent by eating only fish during that week; but even this rule is honored more in the breach than the observance. (No hay nada mas larga que una semana sin carne, goes the Colombian proverb – there’s nothing longer than a week without meat.)
Regardless of the celebration or occasion – baby shower or birthday, Christmas or Easter – in Colombia the host provides all the food and drink. The guests need bring only their appetites.
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Secrets of Colombian Cooking (2004) by Patricia McCausland-Gallo is lacking on quality photographs, but has stellar recipes to show you how to make authentic Colombian food with black-belt precision.
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WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Travelers happy to eat a typical set meal will have no trouble finding a filling lunch, from COP$3000 to COP$8000. Restaurantes serving comida corriente are ubiquitious throughout the country, although many open for lunch only.
Breakfast and dinner can be more problematic. Fewer restaurants are open in the early morning and evening hours as Colombians generally eat these meals at home. You can usually find a panadería (bakery) serving hot rolls and coffee in the morning, and a few restaurants will usually be open serving a typical egg-based breakfast, priced from COP$3000 to COP$5000.
Those interested in finer dining should plan on venturing out in the evening. The major cities all have restaurant districts where you can browse a dozen or so spots and inspect the menus before deciding. You’ll pay from COP$15,000 to COP$30,000 a main in the better restaurants.
Colombians enjoy a good burger and roasted chicken as much as anyone, and a quick (if not inspiring) meal can be had from COP$5000 to COP$10,000, including french fries.
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Many of Colombia’s best restaurants offer a 30% discount on Tuesdays (from March to November) to diners paying with a Visa card. See www.visa.com.co for details.
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Upscale supermarkets in Colombia often have a handful of independent restaurants selling wraps, sushi, pastries etc inside the store, and are usually good value. In any event a visit to the supermarket is heartily recommended, to marvel at the wide array of fruit and to stock up on Colombia’s fabulous (and fabulously cheap) dark chocolate.
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Quick Eats
Colombia has plenty of street vendors and as a general rule they are cheap and the food preparation hygienic.
In big cities, Colombians with the munchies head to their nearest panadería. The Colombian almojábana is a small, bun-shaped bread with a distinct tart flavor and is best eaten fresh from the baker’s oven. It’s made from yucca starch, maize flour and cheese.
In Cali and in the Valle de Cauca (around Cali) almojábanas are called pan de bono and are bagel-shaped instead of bun-shaped. Although buñuelos are technically Christmas fare they are eaten all