Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [29]
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BIG-ASS ANTS
If you are out for a culinary adventure, try a hormiga culona (giant fried ant – or literally, ‘ant with a big ass’) or go ahead and get a kilo of the crispy critters. They are unique to Santander and aren’t picked at on plates, but purchased by weight in shops. Make sure to go during the prime ant-eating season from March to May.
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Empanadas (meat and/or cheese pastries) are ubiquitous and often served with a mildly piquant green sauce; quality can vary from the mind-blowing homemade variety to the microwaveable frozen kind in some bars.
In some of the smaller mountain towns you can expect to see women selling homemade arepas grilled over impromptu oil-drum barbecues. Made principally with white corn, they are served with butter and salt; for a gooey treat go for arepa con queso (arepa stuffed with cheese). A Venezuelan-style arepa, which is a thicker version, is popular on the Caribbean coast; you may also spot them here and there in the cities. Arepa con huevo is a popular, greasy snack. It’s prepared by taking the Venezuelan-style arepa, cutting it down the middle, cracking a whole raw egg into the center and then deep-frying the lot.
Brits, Aussies and Kiwis will be delighted to find Colombians make awesome meat pies. Called pasteles de hojaldre (pastry pies), they are hearty and packed with meat. You’ll find these in upscale panaderías and in supermarket bakeries.
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When ordering a steak, ask for rare (jugoso), medium-rare (medio-jugoso), medium-well (tres-quatro), or well-done (bien cocinado).
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Fresh fruit is a popular snack in Colombia; expect to see street vendors at most major intersections. Mango viche (crunchy green mango served with lime juice and salt) is popular. In Cali and parts of the Pacific and Caribbean coasts, you’ll see women on street corners selling chontaduro, a typical mid-afternoon snack. If you come across a street vendor with what looks like a fish tank of red liquid, you’re about to enjoy salpicón, a watermelon-based fruit salad. Slices of pineapple and papaya are also very popular, and are sold in plastic bags so your fingers don’t get sticky.
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VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
Vegetarianism is not particularly popular in Colombia. There are a handful of vegetarian restaurants in the major cities, most of which serve lunch only. Vegetarians may like to ask for a set lunch (comida corriente) without the meat, but be aware that the beans are often cooked with traces of lard or bacon fat.
Supermarkets are probably your best bet if you want control over what goes into your mouth. Colombian supermarkets offer a full range of fresh vegetables and fruit at prices that would make a North American or European jealous.
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HABITS & CUSTOMS
When a Colombian invites you out to eat it is expected that they will pay (te invito). Likewise, if you invite someone out to eat it is expected that you will pay. The exception to this rule is if you are on a date, in which case the man is expected to pay.
Midrange and top-end restaurants may add a 10% service charge to the bill. In midrange establishments it is acceptable to politely decline to pay this charge (sin servicio, por favor); unless you give it to your waiter directly, tips rarely make it into their hands and will usually end up in the manager’s till. In top-end places you should pay the service charge unless you feel the service was in some way substandard.
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TOP EATS IN COLOMBIA
Colombia is not generally known for its culinary delights. Picky eaters might be disappointed. The following offer the best options for a Colombian dining experience:
Color de Hormiga, Barichara
Andrés Carne de Res, Chía, Bogotá Click here
Antique, Villa de Leyva
El Maná, San Gil
Quinua y Amaranto, La Candelaria, Bogotá Click here
Anderson’s, La Candelaria, Bogotá Click here
Donde Chucho, Santa Marta
Restaurante La Regatta,