Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [57]
Hotel Saint Simon (Map; 621 8188; www.saintsimonbogota.com; Carrera 14 No 81-34; s/d incl breakfast COP$178,000/254,000; ) This friendly midranger in Zona Rosa has nice staff, but the grandeur fades after you leave the nice lobby – rather dated furnishings and flowery wallpaper give rooms no points for style.
Hamilton Court (Map; 621 5455; www.ghlhoteles.com; Carrera 14 No 81-20; s/d incl breakfast COP$301,000/370,000; ) Next to the Saint Simon, this standard business hotel’s ‘suites’ are carpeted, with a separate sleeping area and seating area with sofa. Not particularly inspired, but clean and fresh.
Sofitel (Map; 621 2666; www.sofitel.com; Carrera 13 No 85-80; r from COP$350,000; ) One of Zona Rosa’s best-run hotels, the Sofitel is on a relatively quiet block a couple minutes’ walk from the malls, restaurants and clubs. The sea-of-marble lobby leads up to nice, L-shaped rooms. There’s also a gym and Mediterranean restaurant.
Pavillon Royal (Map; 650 2555; www.hotelesroyal.com; Calle 94 No 11-45; s/d incl breakfast from COP$450,000/525,000; ) The poshest of the Royal chain, the 30-room Pavillon is a block from Parque 93, filling two stately, red-orange towers with a sleek, modern lobby and stylish rooms.
USAQUéN
Atico de Usaquén (Map; 657 8910; www.hotelesroyal.com; Calle 117 No 5-10; s/d/ste incl breakfast COP$290,000/340,000/380,000; ) One of Bogotá’s most intimate boutique hotels, this new eight-room modern spot is a couple blocks from Usaquén’s quaint plaza and area shops, bars and eateries. Each rooms has shaggy carpets, chic design and big looks at mountains from windows – particularly from the lone suite’s wrap-around balcony.
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LATE-NIGHT SNACKING FOR THE DRUNK
Desayunadero de la 42 (Map; cnr Calle 42 & Av Caracas; dishes from COP$8000; 24hr) For decades, bleary-eyed, ultradrunk bogotanos have staggered in to this modest eatery for a bit of wholesome revival. It’s a big space but can get packed at 3am some nights – most drinkers opting for eye-opening (but pricey) plates of calentado (literally ‘reheated leftovers,’ a mix of rice, meat, yucca, plantains and beans) or a caldo con carne (soup with sliced potatoes and giant chunks of fatty beef) – both about COP$15,000.
Selfless research methods attest that the waiters are very patient with various late-night antics, like smuggled-in half-full glasses of aguardiente.
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EATING
Fusion is the word these days for many restaurateurs in Bogotá who are running Mediterranean, Italian, Californian or pan-Asian influences through many typical Colombian dishes. The latest dinner destinations include Zona G’s chic eateries and Macarena’s slightly boho scene, just north of La Candelaria, where many restaurants close up the kitchen and continue on into the night with drinks (only) for the lively student scene.
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Central Bogotá
LA CANDELARIA
Café de la Peña Pastelería Francesa (Map; 336 7488; croissants COP$1500; Carrera 3 No 9-66; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) This simple French-run bakery, with local art adorning the walls of a couple seating areas, makes some of the nicest sweets and pan de chocolate around the center.
La Puerta Falsa (Map; Calle 11 No 6-50; candies COP$1000, meals COP$4000; 7am-11pm Mon-Sat) This is Bogotá’s most famous snack shop – with displayed multicolored candies beckoning you into the tiny spot that’s been in business since 1816. Grab a sticky breva candy, eggs or tamales for breakfast, or sit with chocolate completo (hot chocolate with cheese, buttered bread and a biscuit; COP$4000).
Asociación Futuro (Map; Calle 15 No 2-21; set meals from COP$4200; 7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat, 8am-1pm Sun) Splitting its breakfast trade evenly between locals and backpackers from nearby hostels, this cute corner pad churns out great set breakfasts and Colombian dishes later on. The community-run spot employs staff from a poor area.
L’ Jaim (Map; 281 8635; Carrera 3 No 14-79; set meal COP$6200; 11am-5pm Sun-Fri)