Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [58]
Quinua y Amaranto (Map; 565 9982; Calle 11 No 2-95; set lunch COP$9000; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) This sweet spot – run by ladies in the open-front kitchen – goes all vegetarian, with tasty quinoa-based lunches and empanadas, salads and coffee later on.
Enchiladas (Map; 286 0312; Calle 10 No 2-12; dishes COP$9000-22,000; noon-5pm Sun-Tue, noon-9pm Wed-Sat) For great Mexican meals (veggie and meat), try this lovely spot with Mayan reliefs, a toasty fireplace and old Mexican film photos on the walls. The giant, tasty meat-filled platter of enchiladas and chilaquilas ‘General Lee’ is named for a gringo regular (not a US Civil War general; COP$22,000). Skip the tacos.
Sanalejo (Map; 334 6171; Av Jiménez No 3-73; mains COP$8000-30,000; noon-10pm Mon-Wed, noon-midnight Thu-Sat) A romantic candle-lit series of rooms in this orange-and-green home off Jiménez cooks up pastas, but is better for its meats (like the ‘Baby Beef’ – a chunky serve of steak with fries for COP$22,000). Best of all, it’s open for dinner.
Anderson’s (Map; Carrera 6 No 10-19; mains COP$20,000-28,000; noon-3pm Mon-Sat, 6-10pm Fri) Run by a Nebraskan, this seven-table eatery – filled with bohos, judges and Congressmen – is a cozy wood-floor spot with an open kitchen and excellent dishes, like a stacked filet mignon atop hash browns and a super banana foster for dessert.
CITY CENTER
Olimpica (Map; Av Jiménez No 4-70; 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) Supermarket, about a five-minute walk from most hostels.
Pastelería Florida (Map; 341 0340; Carrera 7 No 21-46; snacks from COP$1000, chocolate completo COP$4000; 6am-10pm Mon-Sat, 6:30am-8pm Sun) Those needing a bit of pomp or history with their chocolate santafereño should make the hike to this classic snack shop/restaurant (a legendary spot for hot chocolate since 1936), with uniformed waiters serving up a variety of cakes.
Restaurante La Pola (Map; 566 5654; Calle 19 No 1-85; set lunch COP$8000; 11am-5pm Mon-Sat) A classic spot, La Pola – on the road to Monserrate – has a mix of old-style rooms and a small courtyard, and offers an excellent lunch deal of meats (the carne a la criolla, a dish of yummy beefsteak with onion and tomato sauce, is superb), along with juice and some of the city’s best ajiaco (soup with chicken, corn, potato, cream and capers).
MACARENA
A dozen blocks north of La Candelaria (or a couple uphill from Centro Internacional), Macarena is an up-and-coming dining district – with a stream of excellent, stylish choices – holding true to its local roots, with passersby likely to pop in and chat with diners.
There are also many worthy choices on Calle 29, just northeast of the Museo Nacional, in Centro Internacional.
Cuba Pizza (Map; 352 1835; Calle 26A No 3A-26; pizzas COP$5000; 12:30-11pm Mon-Sat) This cramped basement space is run by a born-again dough maker who credits ‘a lot of love’ for why her incredibly underpriced pizzas, topped with interesting ingredients such as octopus, are of the best in town.
La Juguetería (Map; 341 1188; Calle 27 No 4A-03; dishes COP$15,000-28,000; noon-3:30pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-4:30pm Sun) Freaky toy-house in Macarena that serves steaks. Glass-top tables feature xylophones and demonic dolls, while merry-go-round horses watch over from the walls. Hard to walk away unfazed.
Tapas Macarena (Map; 243 9004; Carrera 4A No 26-01; tapas COP$8000-20,000; noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm Tue-Sat) Run by a Dutch/Colombian couple, this cool corner spot is tiny with a play on the usual tapas, including sautéed beef with Indonesian peanut sauce, and Dutch cheese plates. Plenty of Belgian beers too.
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Northern Bogotá
ZONA G
Bogotá’s primo dining area fills a couple blocks of converted brick houses into a mix of excellent eateries (Argentine steaks, Italian, French), about 10 blocks south of Zona Rosa.
Harry’s (Map; 321 3940; www.harrysasson.com; Calle 70 No 5-57; burgers COP$25,000, steaks