Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [72]
Many white-water rafting, rappelling and kayaking trips from Bogotá go to Tobía, a rising center for adventure sports about 20km north of Villeta and 75km from Bogotá. On weekends it’s possible to show up and arrange rafting trips here with one of the half dozen companies and find accommodations; it’s very quiet during the week. Most visitors take day trips with Bogotá travel agencies Click here. Also check with Los Tobianos ( 312 576 7278; www.lostobianos.com) about many of the activities available.
Colombia is only starting to pick up on the spa craze. Near Sasaima (60km west of the city) is El Refugio ( 1 243 3564; www.elrefugiohotelspa.com; r from COP$279,000, cabañas COP$1,116,000; ), a lovely 12-room hotel. Rooms are gorgeous, wood-floor deals with bright colors and nice wood furnishings. There’s a pool and several spa packages.
About 132km west of Bogotá – and at the cross roads for Medellín, Cartagena and Cali – hot Honda is a historic town that looks just awful from buses and cars zipping through. In the center, though, there are a number of atmospheric historic buildings that are starting to get some love. Ecoguías in Bogotá can arrange overnight stays in colonial mansions (d weekday/weekend COP$250,000/500,000) here, as well as boat trips on the Río Magdalena and trips to nearby Río Claro.
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SOUTH OF BOGOTÁ
The unique climate conditions of the Andean highlands been conducive to the preservation of mummies across parts of Colombia – some of which have been relocated as far away as the British Museum in London. One place you can see some is the ‘mummy town’ of San Bernardo, about 87km southeast of Bogotá. A century ago, several dozen bodies were unearthed from the cemetery after interment fees were not paid and diggers, surprisingly, found mummies – a product of the unique soil and the local diet of guatila fruit. Some are on view in glass cases in the cemetery crypt in town. You’re best off having your own transport to get here.
About 60km southwest, Melgar is something of ‘Colombia’s Blackpool,’ a cheesy resort town with water parks (not the sea), and a number of nightclubs that serve many weekend bogotano trippers coming for warm weather and trashy fun. There are regular buses servicing the area.
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Boyacá, Santander & Norte de Santander
* * *
BOYACÁ
TUNJA
PUENTE DE BOYACÁ
VILLA DE LEYVA
AROUND VILLA DE LEYVA
SANTUARIO DE IGUAQUE
RáQUIRA
LA CANDELARIA
CHIQUINQUIRÁ
SIERRA NEVADA DEL COCUY
EL COCUY
GÜICÁN
PARQUE NACIONAL NATURAL (PNN) EL COCUY
SANTANDER
SOCORRO
SAN GIL
BARICHARA
GUANE
PARQUE NACIONAL DEL CHICAMOCHA
BUCARAMANGA
GIRóN
NORTE DE SANTANDER
PAMPLONA
CúCUTA
VILLA DEL ROSARIO
* * *
This is Colombia’s heartland, a region of deep gorges, fast-flowing rivers and soaring, snowcapped mountains. It was one of the first areas settled by Spanish conquistadores, and a number of their colonial towns still stand today. It’s here that the seeds of revolution were sowed, culminating in victory at Puente de Boyacá that ultimately led to Colombia’s independence.
The departments of Boyacá, Santander and Norte de Santander are often overlooked by tourists rushing to the Caribbean coast or coming from Venezuela. But the region is a destination in and of itself. There’s much to see and do, from 450-year-old colonial villages to spectacular national parks.
Outdoor lovers can choose between white-water rafting and paragliding in San Gil, mountain biking and horseback riding in Villa de Leyva, or trekking through the glacial peaks of Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy. For less-extreme options, dine alfresco at a trendy restaurant in Barichara, shop for pottery in Ráquira or hit the fashionable clubs of Bucaramanga. The perfectly preserved town of Barichara, with its cobbled streets, stone churches and excellent dining