Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [73]
Return to beginning of chapter
* * *
HIGHLIGHTS
Go on a bicycle or horseback tour through the lovely countryside surrounding the charming colonial village of Villa de Leyva
Rappel, paddle, paraglide or spelunk your way around the ecotourist sites of San Gil
Get lost on the cobblestone roads and alleys of the beautiful colonial village of Barichara
Take a hike along an ancient, fossil-strewn road from Barichara to the tiny hamlet of Guane
Trek amid the spectacular alpine scenery of Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy
* * *
Return to beginning of chapter
History
The Muiscas (Boyacá) and the Guane people (Santander) once occupied the regions north of what is now Bogotá. Highly developed in agriculture and mining, the Muisca traded with their neighbors and came into frequent contact with Spanish conquistadores. It was their stories of gold and emeralds that helped fuel the myth of El Dorado. The conquistadores’ search for the famed city also sparked settlements and the Spanish founded several cities, including Tunja in 1539.
Several generations later, Colombian nationalists first stood up to Spanish rule in Socorro (Santander), stoking the flames of independence for other towns and regions. It was also here that Simón Bolívar and his upstart army took on Spanish infantry, winning decisive battles at Pantano de Vargas and Puente de Boyacá. Colombia’s first constitution was drawn up soon after in Villa del Rosario, between the Venezuelan border and Cúcuta.
Return to beginning of chapter
Climate
Climate varies with the changing altitude. With an elevation of 2960m and an average temperature of 12°C, Güicán is one of the highest and coldest towns in this region; the other extreme is Cúcuta, where hot, muggy weather is the norm and temperatures hover around 27°C. The mountain towns of Tunja and Pamplona are cooler than lower-lying Bucaramanga. Barichara has a perfect year-round average temperature of 22°C.
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Around
The region is easily accessible by public transportation. Most of its cities are located along the safe and modern highway that stretches from Bogotá in the south to the Caribbean coast. Buses are frequent, comfortable and economical. There are regular buses along the main highway from Bogotá to Bucaramanga and beyond. Cúcuta is a major entry point for travelers coming from Venezuela.
Within the region, intercity buses and minivans depart frequently, so you never have to wait long. But in smaller towns, buses may only run once or twice a day. Taxis are plentiful but can be pricey. In Villa de Leyva, a bike or horse might be a more suitable and fun way to explore the countryside.
By plane, many cities, including Bucaramanga and Cúcuta, are increasingly served by low-cost airlines.
BOYACÁ
* * *
The department of Boyacá evokes a sense of patriotism among Colombians; it was here that Colombian troops won their independence from Spain at the Battle of Boyacá. The department is dotted with quaint colonial towns; you could easily spend a few days bouncing between them. Boyacá’s crown jewel is the spectacular PNN El Cocuy, located 249km northeast of the department capital, Tunja.
Return to beginning of chapter
TUNJA
8 / pop 150,000 / elev 2820m
Often overlooked by travelers rushing on to Villa de Leyva, Tunja, the capital of Boyacá and a bustling student center, has plenty to offer the discerning tourist, with fine colonial architecture, an imposing central square and elegant mansions adorned with some of South America’s most unique artwork.
Tunja was founded by Gonzalo Suárez Rendón in 1539 on the site of Hunza, the pre-Hispanic Muisca settlement. Almost nothing is left of the indigenous legacy, but much colonial architecture remains. Tunja is particularly noted for its colonial churches; several imposing examples dating from the 16th century stand almost untouched by time. With nearly a dozen universities, Tunja is also a center of learning. One in five residents