Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [79]
‘Colombia is more than just drugs or coffee. It is a major destination for ecotourism. It has a wealth of natural and cultural diversity and friendly people ready to assist you at a moment’s notice.’
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Tours
Taxis at the bus terminal offer return trips to the surrounding sights. The standard routes include El Fósil, El Infiernito and Convento del Santo Ecce Homo (COP$60,000), and Ráquira and La Candelaria (COP$80,000). Prices are per taxi for up to four people and include stops at the sights.
Colombian Highlands ( 732 1379, 310 552 9079; www.colombianhighlands.com; colombianhighlands@hotmail.com; Carrera 9 No 11-02; 9am-noon & 1-8pm) Run by biologist and Renacer Guesthouse owner Oscar Gilède, this agency has a variety of off-beat tours including ecotours, nocturnal hikes, bird-watching, rappelling/abseiling, canyoning, caving and hiking and rents bikes and horses. English is spoken.
Guías y Travesías ( 732 0742, 311 461 1298; guiadevilladeleyva@yahoo.com; Calle 11 No 8A-30) This agency rents out bicycles and can provide maps and recommended cycling routes. Regional hikes and tours are also available.
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Festivals & Events
Ferias y Fiestas Patronales de la Virgen Del Carmen (mid-July) This festival and fair honors the patron saint of Villa de Leyva.
Festival de las Cometas (Aug) Locals and some foreign kite fans compete in this colorful kite festival.
Festival Gastronómico (Sep) A festival for foodies celebrating the region’s tasty culinary traditions.
Festival Nacional del Árbol (mid-Oct) A green celebration aimed at increasing awareness of the environment and conservationism
Festival de Luces (Dec) This fireworks festival is usually on the first or second weekend of December.
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Sleeping
Villa de Leyva has a large selection of hotels in all price ranges. Note that prices rise on weekends when it may be hard to find a room. During high seasons including Semana Santa and December 20 to January 15, prices can more than double. Plan ahead.
BUDGET
Zona de Camping ( 311 550 7687, 314 381 4108; cnr Carrera 10 & Calle 11; campsite per person high/low season COP$8000/6000) This walled, grassy field has sites and a simple bathhouse, but not much else. Pitch your tent upon arrival and the caretaker will find you later; if the gate is locked, call for the key.
Zona de Camping San Jorge ( 732 0328, 311 213 1125; campingsanjorge@gmail.com; Vereda Roble; campsite per person high/low season COP$8000/6000) Located about 2km northeast of town, this huge grassy field has space for 120 tents with lovely views of the surrounding mountains. Amenities include a small restaurant and shop, spotless bathrooms with hot water and a huge shared kitchen. It’s a 25-minute walk from the plaza: walk north on Carrera 9, passing Museo Paleontológico. At the T-intersection, turn right, then make an immediate left down the well-signed gravel road to the campground.
Renacer Guesthouse ( 732 1201, 311 308 3739; www.colombianhighlands.com; 1.2km northeast of plaza; campsite per person COP$6000, dm/s/d/ste COP$14,000/20,000/38,000/60,000; ) This delightful ‘boutique hostel’ is the creation of biologist and tour guide extraordinaire Oscar Gilède of Colombian Highlands (left). Everything about this place feels like home – hammocks surrounding an immaculate garden; a communal, open-air kitchen with brick oven; spotless dorms, rooms and a luxury suite. It’s a bit tricky to find, but Oscar will pay for guests’ first taxi ride from the bus station. Or stop by Colombian Highlands for directions.
Hospedería La Villa ( 732 0848; hospederialavilla@hotmail.com;