Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [80]
Hospedería La Roca ( 732 0331; Plaza Mayor; r per person COP$35,000; ) Located directly on the main square, the charming La Roca was recently renovated top-to-bottom. The 23 pleasant rooms surround a gorgeous, plant-filled courtyard. All rooms have high ceilings, TV and modern en-suite bathrooms with hot water.
Posada de los Ángeles ( 732 0562; Carrera 10 No 13-94; r per person incl breakfast COP$40,000; ) A pastel-colored affair with modern bathrooms, tile floors and mosquito nets. The historic house overlooks Iglesia del Carmen and serves up a great breakfast.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Hospedaje Sol de La Villa ( 732 0224; Carrera 8A No 12-28; s/d COP$30,000/60,000; ) Located on a quiet side street, this sunny hotel is painted in cheerful, bright colors. All rooms are clean and comfy and have TV and private bathroom with hot water.
Posada San Martín ( 732 0428; Calle 14 No 9-43; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$30,000/50,000/80,000; ) Hidden behind a high wall in a beautiful old home, this quiet and welcoming guesthouse has five rooms, all with private bathroom.
Hotel Plaza Mayor ( 732 0425, 313 387 2258; www.hotelplazamayor.com.co; Carrera 10 No 12-31; s/d from COP$110,000/193,000; ) The grand dame of Villa de Leyva. Its 31 rooms are all furnished to high standards and customer service is unsurpassed. The rooftop patio restaurant overlooks the main square and features traditional food and live music.
Hostería del Molino La Mesopotamia ( 732 0235; Carrera 8 No 15A-265; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$110,000/150,000/190,000; ) Built in 1568, this old flour mill is one of the oldest and most beautiful buildings in town. Unfortunately, its age is showing and we’ve received several complaints. Still, it’s worth a visit to check out the colonial architecture, furnishings and artwork. Nonguests can swim in the spring-fed, fossil-walled swimming pool for COP$5000.
Hotel Plazuela de San Agustín ( 732 1607, 310 299 6221; www.hotelplazuela.com; Calle 15 s/n; s/d/ste COP$200,000/220,000/240,000) This posh, boutique hotel appropriately calls itself a house-museum. The path leading into the colonial hotel is paved with fossils. Inside, the 20 rooms feature period furnishings and exposed wood beams, all overlooking lovely courtyards.
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Eating
Restaurante Casa Blanca ( 732 0821; Calle 13 No 7-16; mains COP$6000-18,000; 10am-5pm) One of the better budget restaurants in town, Casa Blanca offers a choice of tasty à la carte sandwiches, mains and set meals.
Pastelería Francesa (Calle 10 No 9-41; No 7-16; mains COP$1500-5000; breakfast & lunch Thu-Mon) Ooh la la! An authentic French bakery with croissants, baguettes, tarts, quiches, coffees and hot chocolate.
Restaurante Estrella de la Villa (Calle 13 No 8-85; set meals COP$5000; 8am-8pm) A good alternative to the Casa Blanca, this one has reasonable food and prices. It also serves breakfast.
Al Horno ( 732 1996; Carrera 10 No 11-23; mains COP$7000-14,000; 10am-10pm) This colorful and atmospheric bistro has a menu with 12 different types of pizza, plus spaghetti, fettuccine, burgers, sandwiches, crepes and desserts.
Zarina ( 732 0735; Casa Quintero; mains COP$13,000-18,000; lunch & dinner) In-the-know locals vote this Lebanese joint the best eatery in town. There’s no shawarma, but you can enjoy a genuine felafel with tahini.
Antique ( 732 0208; Casona La Guaca, Carrera 9 No 13-55; mains COP$12,000-26,000; lunch & dinner) The place to impress your sweetie, this romantic rooftop restaurant is bathed in candlelight and Spanish love songs. The daring and delicious Nuevo-Colombian menu features amazing dishes such as trout with mango, coconut and prawn sauce, plus an extensive wine list.
Restaurante Savia (Casa Quintero; mains COP$12,000-28,000; 4-10pm Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun) The delightful Savia (previously Xirrus and Don D’Bill) specializes in inventive vegetarian, vegan and organic fare. Carnivores will love the fresh