Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [87]
See opposite for information on getting to and from the park.
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PARQUE NACIONAL NATURAL (PNN) EL COCUY
PNN El Cocuy is the main attraction of Sierra Nevada Del Cocuy region. Established in 1977, the park covers a massive 306,000 hectares, or about 1181 sq miles. The western boundary of the park begins at the 4000m elevation line; the eastern half drops to just 600m elevation to the Colombian llanos (plains).
Most of PNN El Cocuy is made up of a diverse ecosystem known as the páramo. This glacially formed, neotropical system of valleys, plains and mountain lakes includes the largest glacier zone in South America north of the equator. Sadly, the park’s glacier fields are rapidly melting due to climate change. At the present rate, park officials believe the glaciers will be gone within 20 to 30 years.
Despite the harsh environment, PNN El Cocuy is home to diverse species of flora and fauna. Animals you might encounter include the spectacled bear, also called the Andean bear, deer, eagles, condors, mountain tapirs, chinchillas and the beautiful spotted ocelot. The mountaintop plains are covered in a variety of shrubbery, the best known being the yellow flowered frailejón that is native to the area.
The park has 15 peaks that are at least 5000m. The highest is Ritacuba Blanco at 5330m. The park’s most famous landmark is an unusual rock formation called the Púlpito del Diablo (5120m), or devil’s pulpit. This outdoor playground is popular for hiking, trekking, camping, climbing and paragliding.
From 1985 until early this century, PNN El Cocuy was occupied by ruthless ELN guerrillas until the Colombian army moved in and cleaned things up. Today, the park is once again safe for visitors (the little-used eastern plains area of the park in Arauca and Casanare is still questionable). Colombian soldiers have a base in the mountains and regularly patrol the trails. This peace has quickly brought visitors back to the peaks. In 2003 fewer than 100 people climbed PNN Cocuy; that figure jumped to 6000 in 2007, according to park officials.
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Climbing Cocuy
The mountains of PNN El Cocuy are relatively compact and easy to reach. The complete Güicán–El Cocuy Trek roundtrip circuit takes six or seven days, but there are many shorter day hikes; the hike to the snow line is only about three hours from the northern park boundary.
There is no special experience required. However, due to the elevation and terrain, park officials recommend hikers have at least some previous trekking experience and be in good health. Park entry is prohibited to children under 12, pregnant women and people with heart or lung ailments.
The starting points for hiking PNN Cocuy are the archrival villages of Güicán and El Cocuy. By far the most popular option is to hike the circuit clockwise from Güicán. The hike from here is considered easier, and if you hire horses they are able to climb further up to the snowline before you must continue on foot.
All visitors to the park must first report to the PNN El Cocuy offices in either Güicán or El Cocuy, register their itineraries and pay the park admission fee (COP$25,000 for foreigners and COP$9000 for Colombians). Don’t forget to check back in after your hike; if you don’t show up by your return date, park officials will launch search and rescue operations.
Guides, while not required, are highly recommended.
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Tours
You can hire guides and horses from any of the cabañas near the mountains or at Coopserguías (opposite) in El Cocuy. Expect to pay about COP$40,000 a day for a guide for up to eight people. Horses and horse handlers will each cost about COP$35,000 per day. Solo hikers and small groups can be paired up with others to keep costs down.
Coopserguías ( 313 293 8313; www.elcocuycoopserguias.com; cnr Calle 7 & Carrera 6), located