Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [88]
Veteran climber Rodrigo Arias ( 310 211 4130, 313-293-8313; www.colombiatrek.com) of Coopserguías is an experienced, highly recommended guide. He speaks English and can arrange personalized tours and all-inclusive packages for individuals or groups.
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When to Go
The only period of reasonably good weather is from December to February. The rest of the year is rainy and there is snow at high altitudes and on the highest passes. The weather changes frequently. The Sierra Nevada is known for its strong winds.
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What to Bring
All park visitors must be completely self-sufficient. There are no residents or services inside the park. That means bringing all your own high-mountain trekking equipment including a good tent, a sleeping bag rated to -10ºC, warm and waterproof clothing, good hiking boots, flashlights, first-aid kit, gas stove and food. You cannot buy outdoor equipment in El Cocuy or Güicán, but you may be able to find camping gear in Bogotá. The circuit traverses a glacier, but you won’t need any special equipment.
If you don’t have a tent or basic trekking gear, the only way to explore the mountains is in a series of short, one-day walks from a base at one of the cabañas. This, however, will give you just a taste of these magnificent mountains.
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Sleeping
After a visit to El Cocuy or Güicán, most hikers chose to acclimate to the altitude by staying overnight at one of several cabañas located just outside the park boundaries. The most comfortable cabañas are located in the north end of the park near Güicán. The best-known is Cabañas Kanwara ( 311 231 6004; r per person COP$25,000). The three A-frame cabins each have 15 beds, a fireplace, kitchen and bath. Other good choices include Hacienda Peña Blanca ( 702 0600, 310 232 4839; r per person COP$25,000) and Posada Sierra Nevada ( 311 237 8619; www.posadasierranevada.com; r per person COP$25,000), the newest and highest at 3950m.
Halfway between El Cocuy and Güicán you’ll find the Cabañas Del Pulpito ( 314 272 9524, 320 297 1111; r per person COP$22,000), previously known as Cabañas Güicáni, and the rustic working farmhouse of Hacienda La Esperanza ( 310 200 4214, 1 263 8712; haciendalaesperanza@gmail.com; r per person COP$10,000). In the tiny hamlet of La Capilla, there are a few basic rooms above the storefront of La Capilla Hospedaje & Restaurant ( 316 337 1507; per person COP$10,000).
At the southern end of the park, Cabañas Herrera ( 311 885 4263) is a comfy but minuscule hut. During our visit, park officials were constructing their own cabaña nearby.
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Getting There & Away
From Güicán, it’s a five-hour hike straight up to Cabañas Kanwara, where the northern circuit trails begin. Private car hire to one of the cabañas will set you back about COP$100,000. Some cabañas also offer transportation; prices vary depending on destination and group sizes. A much cheaper alternative is to hop a ride on La Lechero (COP$5000), the morning milk trucks that make the rounds to the mountain farms. The lecheros leave Güicán plaza at 5:30am, reach El Cocuy plaza at 6am and make a counter-clockwise circuit back to Güicán. There are several lecheros, so you must ask around to find the one going to your destination. Most lecheros do not stop directly at the cabañas; you’ll be let off at the nearest intersection where you must hike up the rest of the way.
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Güicán–El Cocuy Circuit Trek
DAYS ONE & TWO: GÜICÁN TO LAGUNA GRANDE DE LOS VERDES
This section can be done in a single day from Güicán, but it would be a hard, rapid ascent to high altitudes. To acclimate yourself, spend a leisurely first day getting to one of the cabañas and stay overnight there.
On day two, hike from Cabañas Kanwara to the top of the Ritacuba Blanco up its gently sloping back face. The ascent takes five