Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [89]
The next leg is to Laguna Grande de los Verdes. Walk to the Río Cardenillo creek along either a rough road or a path, about two hours total. Once you cross the creek, it’s a steady two-hour ascent to the Boquerón del Carmen pass (4300m). Keep to the right-hand side of the valley as you descend from the pass. The trail crosses the valley and continues along the left-hand slope just below the cliffs, finally arriving at the Laguna Grande de los Verdes (3900m). There are a lot of good camping sites around the lake, including a fabulous, white sandy beach.
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WARNING
The circuit is not easy for those without previous trekking experience. The average altitude is between 4000m and 4600m and there is a glaciated pass on the way. There are no people living along the route, so you must be absolutely self-sufficient. There are no short cuts. Most importantly, the weather is unpredictable so you must be prepared for rain or snow at any time.
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DAY THREE: LAGUNA GRANDE DE LOS VERDES TO LAGUNA DEL AVELLANAL
The average walking time between these two lakes is about seven hours. The trail skirts around the eastern side of the Laguna Grande de los Verdes and heads up to the Boquerón de los Frailes pass (4200m). From here onwards, up to Laguna de la Plaza and even further, you’ll be enjoying magnificent views of snowy peaks.
After a short descent the trail divides. Take the right-hand branch which heads south along the foot of rocky cliffs. After about three hours you will arrive at the Laguna de la Isla, passing high above its western side. Continue up to the Boquerón de la Sierra pass (4850m). It’s often covered with snow, especially in the rainy season, but the trail is easy to find. From the pass, if the weather is clear, you will see the Laguna del Avellanal below and the long, magnificent Valle de los Cojines beyond, lined on both sides by snowy peaks. The trail drops down to the lake where you can camp, although the lake shore is quite rocky. Alternatively, there is a cave a few hundred meters west of the lake where enormous rocks have formed a tentlike roof.
DAY FOUR: LAGUNA DEL AVELLANAL TO LAGUNA DEL PAÑUELO
This leg will require about seven hours of constant walking, not including stops. From the Laguna del Avellanal the trail descends slowly, following the river into the Valle de los Cojines. You will pass a few small waterfalls on your right before reaching the most spectacular of all, the Cascada del Río Ratoncito. Here the main trail turns eastward and follows the river down into Los Llanos. Use this trail down to see the falls only, but then climb back up again to the point where it turns east.
Cross the creek and continue south along the Valle de los Cojines, keeping close to its right-hand (western) side, just above the wide, plain bed of the valley. The trail here is faint and disappears, but don’t worry: just head on to the far end of the valley, sticking all the time to the right-hand slope. Once you reach the end of the valley you begin to ascend. From there you will get to the Laguna del Rincón (4400m) in 30 minutes.
From the lake you climb one hour up to the glacial pass, the Boquerón del Castillo (4800m) with its breathtaking views. There is no trail, so just head up to the lowest point between the ranges. Walk carefully, checking the surface for hidden crevasses in the glacier. It’s best to use a rope, especially during bad weather. From the pass, it’s a one-hour walk down to the small Laguna del Pañuelo, where you will camp for the night. Descend carefully, as there are crevasses on this slope as well.
The pass is often hidden in clouds and fog, especially during the rainy/snowy season. If this is the case, don’t attempt to cross – it’s too dangerous. Camp at the Laguna del Rincón and cross over the pass the following morning.
DAY FIVE: LAGUNA DEL PAÑUELO TO LAGUNA DE LA PLAZA
This bit may be quite difficult as there is no trail. The walking time can be six to eight