Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [91]
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Orientation
Like most Colombian cities, San Gil is laid out in a grid pattern; Calles run north–south and Carreras run east–west. The heart of San Gil is the town square called Parque La Libertad. Towering over the north end of the square is the Catedral Santa Cruz. Standing on the plaza facing the cathedral, Calle 12 is on your right-hand side. Follow this road uphill (north) to reach many of the town’s hotels, restaurants and bars. Two blocks south of the plaza is the Río Fonce river that divides the town into northern and southern halves. The waterfront malecón promenade runs parallel along the north bank of the river, beginning near the bridge at Calle 10 and ending east at the front gates of Parque El Gallineral.
The main bus terminal is 3km west of San Gil.
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Information
There are several ATMs in and around the plaza. The official tourism website is www.sangil.com.co.
Bancolombia (Calle 12 No 10-44) Has an unusually large COP$400,000 daily withdrawal limit.
CoffeEmail (Calle 13 No 9-78; per hr COP$1500; 7:30am-9pm) One of several internet cafes around the plaza.
Foxnet ( 724 6659; Centro Comercial El Edén, Carrera 10 No 12-37; per hr COP$1500; 8:30am-noon & 2-9:30pm)
Post office (Carrera 10 No 10-50; 8-11:30am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) Next to Cajasan Supermercado.
Tourist office ( 724 4617; cnr Carrera 10 & Calle 12; 8am-noon & 2-6pm) The main tourist office is on the southeast corner of the plaza. A smaller, rarely manned kiosk is near the entrance to Parque El Gallineral.
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Sights
PARQUE EL GALLINERAL
San Gil’s showpiece is the mystical Parque El Gallineral ( 724 4372; cnr Malecón & Calle 6; admission COP$4000; 8am-6pm), a 4-hectare park set on a triangle-shaped island between two arms of the Quebrada Curití and Río Fonce. Nearly all of the 1876 trees are covered with long silvery tendrils of moss called barbas de viejo, or old man’s beard, hanging from branches to form translucent curtains of foliage and filtered sunlight. It’s like a scene set in JRR Tolkien’s Middle Earth. Several paths and covered bridges snake through the urban forest and over the rapids. After your hike, relax with a swim in the large spring-fed pool or sip a cerveza at one of the pricey restaurants and cafes.
PARQUE LA LIBERTAD
The tree-lined town square plaza of Parque La Libertad, also called Parque Principal, is San Gil’s most visible landmark and the heart of its social life. On weekend nights, the plaza is packed with multiple generations of Colombian families enjoying the festive atmosphere while street vendors hawk warm arepas and cold cerveza. The north end of plaza is dominated by the handsome 18th-century stone Catedral Santa Cruz (cnr Carrera 9 & Calle 13).
CASA DE CULTURA
One block downhill from the plaza is the Casa de Cultura ( 724 6986; Calle 12 No 10-31; admission free; 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat), an old colonial mansion that has temporary art exhibits and a cafe. It’s also home to the new Museo de Arqueología y Antropológico Guane de San Gil ( 3-6pm), a small museum exploring the history and culture of the indigenous Guane peoples of Santander.
CASCADAS DE JUAN CURI
Take a day trip to this spectacular 180m-high waterfall where you can swim in the natural pool at its base or relax on the rocks. Adrenalin junkies can rappel the sheer face of the falls; book this activity with one of the tour companies following. Juan Curi is 22km from San Gil on the road to Charalá. Buses to Charalá (COP$2500, 30 minutes) depart twice per hour from the east side of the bridge on Calle 10. Ask the driver to let you out at las cascadas (cascades), where two 20-minute trails lead up to the falls. The property owner may charge you COP$3000 or COP$5000.
Other nearby watery attractions are the Pescadarito (aka Quebrada Curití), a mountain river 12km northeast of San Gil near the village of Curití