Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [92]
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Activities & Tours
Several tour agencies in San Gil run white-water rafting on local rivers. A 10km run on Río Fonce (Class 1 to 3) costs COP$25,000 per person and takes 1½ hours; experienced rafters can tackle the extreme rapids of the Río Suarez (COP$120,000, up to Class 5). Most operators also offer paragliding, caving, kayaking, horseback riding, rappelling/abseiling, mountain biking, quad biking, paintball, hydrospeeding, bungee jumping and ecowalks.
Aventura Total ( 723 8888; www.aventuratotal.com.co)
Colombia Rafting Expeditions ( 311 283 8647; www.colombiarafting.com; Carrera 10 No 7-83)
Macondo Adventures ( 724 4463, 311 828 2905; www.macondohostel.com; Macondo Guesthouse, Calle 12 No 7-26)
Planeta Azul ( 724 0000; planetaazulsg@hotmail.com; Parque El Gallineral)
Ríos y Canoas ( 724 7220, 724 7091; riosycanoas@hotmail.com; Parque El Gallineral)
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Sleeping
San Gil has plenty of downtown budget and moderately priced lodging options. In addition to the options here, there are many basic cheapie hotels on Calle 10. Folks looking for a little more pampering should check out the luxury hotel-resorts on the outskirts of town along Via Charalá or Via Mogotes.
Macondo Guesthouse ( 724 4463, 311 828 2905; www.macondohostel.com; Calle 12 No 7-26; dm per person COP$13,000, r COP$26,000-30,000; ) This laid-back hostel is a bit like crashing at a friend’s place. The colonial house has a courtyard with hammocks, cooking and laundry facilities, internet and wi-fi. Rooms are basic but clean, with shared baths. Australian owner Shaun is a treasure trove of information and can book adventure activities and tours. Sooner or later everyone ends up at Macondo. Book ahead.
Santander Alemán ( 724 2535, 317 770 9188; igarnica@hotmail.com; Calle 12 No 7-63; r per person COP$15,000-20,000) Blissfully quiet, this lovely family-run guesthouse has five spotless rooms of various sizes. The shared facilities feature an open-air shower where you can bathe under the stars. As a bonus, the on-site restaurant (mains COP$3500 to COP$4500, open breakfast and lunch) has one of the best breakfasts in town.
Centro Real ( 724 0387; Calle 10 No 10-41; s/d COP$14,000/20,000; ) A friendly, modern hotel with 20 comfy rooms, all with private bathroom. It’s one of the nicest of the many budget hotels along this block.
Hotel El Viajero ( 724 4817; hotelviajero2@hotmail.com; Carrera 11 No 11-07; s/d COP$16,000/25,000) This place scores big points for its rustic charm and excellent river views off the back deck, and would be better if the rooms weren’t the size of closets.
Hotel Mansión del Parque ( 724 5662; Calle 12 No 8-71; s/d COP$46,000/88,000) Set in a colonial mansion on the corner of Parque Central, this hotel has large rooms, the best of which have balconies overlooking the plaza.
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Eating
San Gil is not the most gastronomic area of Colombia, but it does have some decent restaurants serving home-cooked local cuisine. There are many fast-food joints on Carrera 10 between Calles 11 and 12. Stock up on groceries at Cajasan Supermercado (Carrera 10 No 10-50; 8am-8pm) or Autoservice Vera Cruz (Calle 13 No 9-24; 7:30-9pm). For a true locals’ experience, head to Plaza de Mercado (Carrera 11 btwn Calles 13 & 14; 6am-2pm), a bustling covered market where you can grab plenty of comida corriente, tamales and fresh-squeezed juices.
Cafetería Donde Betty (cnr Carrera 9 & Calle 12; 7am-midnight) This pleasant cafe serves breakfast, sandwiches and thirst-quenching fruit shakes.
El Maná ( 300 460 6269; Calle 10 No 9-12; set meals COP$7500; lunch & dinner) This popular, word-of-mouth favorite is the best restaurant in town. Huge set meals feature traditional dishes like chicken in plum sauce, carne asada (grilled steak) and grilled mountain trout.
Restaurante Vegetariano Saludable