Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [94]
Hospital ( 726 7133; Carrera 2, btwn Calles 3 & 4)
Police ( 726 7173; Calle 5 No 6-39)
Post office ( 726 7127; Carrera 6 No 4-90; 8am-noon & 2-6pm) Adpostal.
Telecom ( Carrera 7, No 4-67) Local and international phone calls.
Tourist office ( 726 7052, Calle 5 No 6-39, 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) Located in the 2nd floor of the police station. On weekends, there is a tourist kiosk on the plaza.
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Sights
The main attraction of Barichara is its architecture. The 18th-century sandstone Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción (Parque Principal) is the most elaborate structure in town, looking somewhat too big for the town’s needs. Its golden stonework (which turns deep orange at sunset) contrasts with the whitewashed houses surrounding it. The building has a clerestory (a second row of windows high up in the nave), which is unusual for a Spanish colonial church. The cathedral faces Parque Principal, the main town square dotted with palm trees, tropical plants, a water fountain and benches perfect for people-watching.
The Iglesia de Santa Bárbara (cnr Carrera 11 & Calle 6) atop a hill at the north end of town has been carefully reconstructed in the 1990s (only the facade survived). Continue up the hill behind the church to reach Parque para las Artes, a lovely little park decorated with water features and statues carved by local sculptures, and an outdoor amphitheater that occasionally hosts live music concerts. From the park, enjoy the breathtaking views of Barichara and the neighboring valley.
The cemetery chapel, the Capilla de Jesús Resucitado (cnr Carrera 7 & Calle 3), unfortunately lost a part of its bell tower when it was damaged by lightning. Do visit the cemetery next to the chapel, noted for interesting tombs elaborated in stone. Also have a look at the Capilla de San Antonio (cnr Carrera 4 & Calle 5), the youngest of the town’s churches, dating from 1831.
The Casa de Cultura ( 726 7002; Calle 5 No 6-29; admission COP$500; 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun), a colonial house laid out around a fine patio and situated on the main square, features a mishmash collection of fossils, Guane pottery, paintings, typewriters, tools and other tchotchkes.
The Casa de Aquileo Parra (Carrera 2 No 5-60) is a small, humble home of Alquileo Parrera, who served as Colombia’s 11th president (1876–78). There’s a small museum but most of the building is now a cooperative for elderly weavers where you can watch them at work. The woman who runs the co-op can give you a tour, though there is little to see.
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Activities
Don’t miss the spectacular hike to the tiny hamlet of Guane on the historic El Camino Real. This ancient stone-paved road was built by the indigenous Guane people and rebuilt continuously over the centuries. It was declared a national monument in 1988. From Barichara, the 9km easy hike takes about two hours to complete. The trail is mostly downhill, occasionally crossing over the modern highway to Guane. You’ll begin the hike by climbing down the rim of a canyon and then traverse a valley filled with cacti and trees, occasionally encountering grazing goats or cows but rarely other humans. Notice the many fossils embedded in the stone road. El Camino Real begins at the north end of Calle 4, where a sign marks the beginning of the trail. Don’t forget your water, sunscreen and proper footwear.
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Sleeping
Barichara is not cheap; budget travelers are better off staying in San Gil. Prices listed here can spike 30% or more during temporada alta (high season), roughly December 20 to January 15 and Easter week, Semana Santa. During high season, reservations are a must.
Hospedería Aposentos ( 726 7294; Calle 6 No 6-40; r per person COP$30,000) On the main plaza, Aposentos is a small, good-value place, with five rooms set around a courtyard. All rooms have private bathroom and TV.
La Mansión de Virginia ( 726 7170, 314 233 5907; Calle 8 No 7-26;