Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [95]
Hotel Coratá ( 726 7110, 311 481 3195; Carrera 7 No 4-08; r incl breakfast COP$80,000) Aficionados of historical residences will fall in love Coratá, a 300-year-old building decorated with antiques and wood furnishings. The rooms have vaulted ceilings, TV and private bathroom.
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BARICHARA’S BOOTYLICIOUS BUGS
Of all of Colombia’s culinary traditions, perhaps none is so peculiar as Santander’s delicacy, hormigas culonas – literally fat-bottom ants. The tradition dates back more than 500 years when indigenous Guane peoples cultivated and devoured ants for their supposed aphrodisiac and healing properties. The giant dark-brown colored ants are fried or roasted and eaten whole, or ground into a powder. Containers of fried ant snacks are sold in just about any corner shop in Santander, but especially Barichara, San Gil and Bucaramanga. The are normally in season during spring, but can now be found year-round. They taste like, well, crunchy dirt mixed with old coffee grounds. It’s definitely an acquired taste.
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Hostal Misión Santa Bárbara ( 726 7163, in Bogotá 1 288 4949; www.hostalmisionsantabarbara.info; Calle 5 No 9-12; s/d incl breakfast COP$95,000/150,000; ) Santa Bárbara, set in a meticulously refurbished colonial mansion, has cozy en suite rooms with period furnishings. The restaurant here gets high marks.
La Nube Posada ( 726 7161, 310 334 8677; www.lanubeposada.com; Calle 7 No 7-39; s/tr COP$99,000/203,000, d COP$132,000-154,000) Hidden behind the unassuming exterior, this old colonial home has been transformed into a gorgeous boutique hotel with sleek, minimalist decor. The eight simply-furnished rooms have queen-sized beds, vaulted ceilings with exposed wood beams and private baths. Spa services are available. The on-site gourmet restaurant/bar is one of the best in town.
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Eating & Drinking
Barichara is a foodies’ paradise. Many gourmet restaurants have opened in recent years, offering nouveau-Colombian cuisine and traditional regional dishes like cabrito (grilled baby goat). The regional specialty is the famous hormigas culonas (see the boxed text).
There is practically no nightlife. A few corner shops sell aguardiente (anise-flavored liquor), beer and the local specialty, chicha de maíz, an alcoholic drink made from maize.
Restaurante La Casona ( 726 7251; Calle 6 No 5-68; set mains COP$2000; noon-6pm) This friendly family restaurant serves cheap set meals and typical regional dishes such as grilled meats.
Plenilunio Café ( 726 7485; Calle 6 No 7-74; mains COP$7000-10,000; 6:30-11pm) This Italian restaurant serves dishes such as crepes and chicken. It’s set in a cozy room with just four tables where you can hang out long after you’ve eaten, enjoying a game of chess.
Restaurante La Braza ( 726 7321; Carrera 6 No 6-31; mains COP$6000-12,000; noon-6pm) Low-priced Colombian lunches and dinners are served under a thatched roof in this large, open-air restaurant. It specializes in cabro con pepitoria (goat meat with blood and organs).
Color de Hormiga ( 726 7156; Calle 8 No 8-44; mains COP$14,000-18,000; lunch & dinner Wed-Mon) Literally named ‘The Color of Ants,’ Barichara’s best restaurant specializes in dishes made with the region’s famous delicacy. The filet mignon drenched in ant sauce and topped with fried ants is a must. There are also many insect-free dishes, like the scrumptious lamb curry and steak with blue cheese. Don’t forget to sample the extensive wine and dessert list. The lovely thatched-roof, open-air restaurant faces a lush garden and fishponds.
Algarabia ( 726 7414, 313 364 8726; Calle 6 No 10-96; mains COP$15,000-30,000; lunch & dinner) Set amid a beautiful open-air courtyard garden, this new restaurant is run by friendly Spaniard Francisco and his Colombian wife Sofia. The house specialties include paella and seafood.
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