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Cooking for Two - Bruce Weinstein [3]

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hydrator for up to 2 weeks. If the ribs have gone limp, give them a fresh cut about one inch above the root end, then try refreshing them in a bowl of ice water for an hour. You may also find celery on the buffet at your neighborhood deli, supermarket salad bar, or takeout eatery. The quality, of course, varies dramatically, but you can always buy just what you need. In fact, supermarket salad bars can be a great resource when cooking in small batches: two small carrots, one radish, a single celery rib.


Chili Powder Chili powder is a blend of powdered dried chiles (often dried ancho chiles), dried oregano, and ground cumin; Mexican or Latin American brands can also include ground cloves, cinnamon, garlic, salt, and cilantro. Because of the chemical reaction among the spices’ oils, chili powder goes stale quickly; store it in a cool, dark place for no more than three months.


Clam Juice Available bottled in most supermarkets, this is the liquid left over when clams are cooked. Buy it only in clear bottles; look for a pale white liquid, not beige or brown, with no sandy sediment.


Coconut Milk This thickened coconut liquid is made by simmering coconut meat in water, then straining the mixture. Do not substitute “cream of coconut,” which is a sweetened coconut mixture made for desserts and tiki-bar drinks.


Dried Mushrooms Many of these recipes call for dried mushrooms, which are then reconstituted in hot water. Do not substitute fresh mushrooms when a recipe calls for dried. Buy dried mushrooms in clear packages; look for mushrooms that are whole and have a color similar to their fresh counterparts. Do not buy dried mushrooms that have been pounded to dust or that have turned gray from improper storage.


Eggs For much of the baking, we’ve used either quail eggs or pasteurized egg substitutes, such as Egg Beaters. Do not replace them with pasteurized egg whites, which lack a modified food starch that stabilizes baked goods.

Some recipes call for a whole egg, usually a medium egg, or just an egg white or a yolk. Egg whites and yolks can be stored in the refrigerator, tightly covered, for 2 days, to be added to scrambled eggs or omelets. Egg whites can also be frozen for up to 6 months. To freeze egg yolks, whisk a pinch of salt into each yolk to prevent coagulation, then freeze tightly covered for up to 3 months.


Herbs and Spices We’ve almost always given you the choice of using dried or fresh herbs. While we prefer fresh, the amounts called for are so small that they can cause leftover fresh herbs, so dried herbs are usually an alternative. In a few cases, we’ve called only for fresh herbs—usually because the dish cooks so quickly that dried herbs don’t have time to soften. Dried herbs and spices can be kept in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. Ground spices, such as mustard or cinnamon, have a slightly longer shelf life. Dried leafy spices take on a tealike taste when stale.


Liquid Smoke It can cause fights in some parts of the country among purists, but liquid smoke is an easy way to get a smoky flavor into casseroles. Still, it’s optional in all our recipes. Despite one brand eponymously so-named, there are many varieties, usually made with mesquite or hickory. The best are simply wood smoke distillate and water, not cut with stabilizers or artificial flavorings.


Mango Chutney Every supermarket carries Major Grey’s, one version of this vinegary, jamlike sauce made from mangoes and spices. But it’s a pale imitation compared to what’s available in some gourmet markets, at East Indian markets, or from outlets listed in the Source Guide (page 269).


Nam Pla Nam pla imparts the characteristic taste to many Thai dishes—so much so that this fermented mixture offish and spices is often called the soy sauce of Southeast Asia. Quite pungent, the flavors mellow beautifully when heated. Its slightly milder Vietnamese cousin, nuoc mam, can be substituted.


Nuts Store them, shelled or not, in the freezer in sealed plastic bags or other airtight containers; there, they will stay fresh for about a year. They can be tossed

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