Cooking for Two - Bruce Weinstein [4]
Onions For these recipes, a “small onion” is 2 to 2½ inches in diameter. Pre-chopped onions are available in the freezer section of some supermarkets. While the quality of this frozen convenience varies dramatically, it can be a time saver in a pinch.
Pancetta This cured Italian bacon is not smoked. Pressed into a roll, it’s usually available at the butcher counter or some deli counters. Have the butcher slice off a piece just the size you need. If you buy extra, store it tightly wrapped in the freezer for up to 4 months.
Paprika Paprika is made from ground red peppers; it’s usually labeled “mild” or “hot.” All the recipes in this book were made with mild paprika. If you prefer a dish with far more heat, try the hot, sometimes labeled “hot Hungarian paprika.” Because of the interaction of the chile oils, paprika loses its power soon after the container is opened. Store it in a cool, dry, dark place for no more than three months. If yours is bordering on stale, you might be able to refresh it by heating it in a dry skillet over very low heat for about 2 minutes, or until fragrant.
Parmigiano-Reggiano This aged skimmed-milk cheese from Italy has no substitute. There are some American brands, but they have a less complex taste, as well as a bit more tang. Buy Parmigiano-Reggiano in chunks from a large wheel with the name of the cheese stamped on the rind (a sign of authenticity).
Peanut Oil American peanut oils tend to be mild; Chinese bottlings smell and taste more like peanuts. A necessity for many Southern, Cajun, and Chinese dishes, peanut oil can go rancid—always smell it before using. Store it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. Some bottlings may cloud and solidify in the refrigerator—let the oil reliquefy and come back to room temperature before using.
Pepitás These pale green pumpkin seeds are common in Mexican and southwestern cooking. You can find them in most health food stores, at some gourmet stores, or from outlets listed in the Source Guide (page 269). They are sold salted or unsalted, hulled or still in their shell. The recipes in this book call only for unsalted, hulled pepitás.
Potatoes When buying potatoes in bulk, do not store them in your refrigerator; at 40°F, potato starch begins to break down within fifteen minutes. Store potatoes in a cool, dark place, but not with the onions and shallots, the fumes of which will encourage the potatoes to sprout.
Quail Eggs Even when baking in small batches, egg proteins are still necessary for making cookies and cakes. The perfect-sized answer? Quail eggs, which have begun showing up in many markets.
Because the shells are slightly gelatinous, quail eggs can be difficult to crack. To do so, use a sharp paring knife to saw off a small bit of the top; with your finger or a tiny spoon, scoop out the tiny white and yolk.
If you can’t find quail eggs, use pasteurized egg substitutes, such as Egg Beaters, as an alternative; these can be precisely measured out. We have not called for small chicken eggs because these are not readily available. Indeed, it is illegal to sell them in some locales. Besides, a small chicken egg is still too much egg for some of these recipes.
Red Chili Paste A mixture of dried chiles, fermented beans, garlic, and thickeners, this Chinese condiment is also sold under names such as “chili paste with garlic” or “Szechwan chili sauce,” or under brand names such as Lan Chi or Sun Wah. You can find it in the Asian aisle of most large supermarkets or in all Asian grocery stores. Quite fiery, it should be used sparingly if you have concerns about the heat of the dish. Store red chili paste in the refrigerator for up to 2 years. If you can’t find red chili paste, substitute an equivalent amount of a mixture of equal parts red pepper flakes and canola or other vegetable oil—although the taste will be less aromatic, less complex, and more biting.
Rice Vinegar Made from fermented rice