Cooking for Two - Bruce Weinstein [5]
Saffron Threads Long the world’s most treasured spice, saffron is sold in minuscule amounts, a few threads (or stigmas from a variety of purple crocus) per package. It’s often available at the manager’s desk in supermarkets. Look for whole, brightly colored threads, whether red or yellow; they should not be powdered. Store any unused threads in a small, airtight container in a dark, cool place for up to 8 months.
Shallots Shallots taste like a cross between an onion and garlic, but they look like garlic, with papery hulls and individual cloves, usually two per head. Recipes in this book refer to the entire shallot, all the cloves together. Remove the papery hull, then chop the cloves as you would an onion. Do not refrigerate shallots; store them in a dark, cool place for up to a month. If they sprout, they have lost their usefulness.
Shao Shing A Chinese rice wine made from glutinous rice, Shao Shing is used to flavor many Asian dishes. In some bottlings, it’s labeled “Shaoxing” or “Hua Tiao” (that is, “carved flower,” because of the carvings on the urns in which it is aged). Stored in a cool place, it can be kept for up to two years. Substitute dry sherry in a pinch—but never substitute Japanese sake or rice vinegar.
Shrimp All monikers used for shrimp—“jumbo,” “large,” or “colossal”—are mere window-dressing; they carry no official imprimatur. It’s best to buy shrimp according to how many make up a pound; 30 to 35 per pound would be about average for “medium” shrimp. If you’re squeamish about peeling and deveining them, have your fishmonger do this for you. Unless specifically called for, do not use precooked shrimp, sometimes sold as “cocktail shrimp.”
Sugar Unless otherwise stated, “sugar” means granulated sugar. Light or dark brown sugar (the difference is the amount of molasses added to granulated sugar) should be packed into tablespoon and cup measures to remove any air between the grains.
Tomatillos Sometimes called Mexican green tomatoes, tomatillos are closely related to gooseberries. (You can tell because of their papery husks.) Purchase tomatillos that are bright green and, if possible, still have the husks attached. Tomatillos can be found in the produce section of most markets, often with the tomatoes, as well as in almost all Latin American markets.
Tomato Paste Until recently, tomato paste was available only in cans, a sticking point when you only need a tablespoon or two. Now it’s widely available in squeeze tubes. Reseal the tube and store it in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.
Vermouth This is a great substitute for wine in small-batch cooking because you needn’t worry about it going bad after you’ve used a small amount. Store vermouth at room temperature in a cool, dark place for up to a year. Our recipes call only for dry vermouth, sold with a white label. Do not substitute sweet red vermouth, a concoction best kept for cocktails, or the Italian aperitif Bianco, sometimes sold as vermouth.
the everyday pantry
A well-stocked pantry helps you avoid those there’s-nothing-in-the-house-so-let’s-go-out moments. In all cases, we have not hesitated to use small amounts of these items. That said, you needn’t run out and buy this list before you start. It’s just a handy guide to things that will keep for months on end, used in small portions in these recipes.
All-purpose flour, preferably unbleached
Baking powder, preferably double-acting
Baking soda
Black pepper
Brandy or Grand Marnier
Bulgur wheat
Canola or other vegetable oil
Chocolate
bittersweet or dark squares or chips
semisweet chips
unsweetened squares or chips
Cocoa powder
Confectioners’ sugar
Cornstarch
Cream of tartar
Dried bread crumbs
Dried fruit
Dried