Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [107]
La Negrita, ‘the Black Virgin,’ is a small (less than a meter tall), probably indigenous, representation of the Virgin Mary, found on this spot on August 2, 1635 by a native woman. As the story goes, when she tried to take the statuette with her, it miraculously reappeared back where she’d found it. Twice. So the townspeople built a shrine around her. In 1824, she was declared Costa Rica’s patron Virgin. She now resides on a gold, jewel-studded platform at the main altar. Each August 2, on the anniversary of the statuette’s miraculous discovery, pilgrims from every corner of the country (and beyond) walk the 22km from San José to the basilica. Many of the penitent complete the last few hundred meters of the pilgrimage on their knees.
At other times, the best time to visit the basilica is during mass. Noon mass is the best, when the sun is up and the stained-glass shimmers – and the organist bangs away at the massive pipe organ that hovers over the main doorway. (During ceremonies, please be respectful. Take a seat and refrain from taking pictures.) Otherwise, the church – with its hand-painted interiors and clerestory windows – is lovely any time of day.
Las Ruinas de la Parroquia (Iglesia del Convento; cnr Av 2 & Calle 2) was built in 1575 as a shrine to St James the Apostle (Santiago, in Spanish), destroyed by the 1841 earthquake, rebuilt a few years later and was then destroyed again in the 1910 earthquake. Today only the outer walls of the church remain, but ‘the Ruins’ are a pleasant spot for hanging out and people-watching – though legend has it that the ghost of a headless priest wanders the ground on foggy nights.
For an insight into regional cultures, visit the Elias Leiva Museum of Ethnography (2551-0895; Colegio Luis Gonzaga, Calle 3 btwn Avs 3 & 5; admission adult/student US$7/4; 7am-2pm Mon-Fri), located in the basement of the Colegio Luis Gonzaga. It has a few small displays of pre-Columbian and colonial artifacts.
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Sleeping & Eating
Lodging options are limited and your best bet for food is to stroll along Avs 2 and 4 downtown, where sodas and bakeries can be found.
Hotel Dinastía (2551-7057; Calle 3; r with/without bathroom US$19/15) This bare-bones spot near the San José bus station has 27 aging rooms with thin walls. Rooms with private bathroom have hot water; others do not.
Los Ángeles Lodge (2551-0957, 2591-4169; Av 4 btwn Calles 14 & 16; d with breakfast US$50; ) With its balconies overlooking the Plaza de la Basílica, this decent B&B stands out with spacious and comfortable rooms, hot showers and a big breakfast made to order by the cheerful owners.
Panadería Araya (2551-0739; Av 4 btwn Calles 8 & 10; pastries from ₡125; 5am-9pm) A tidy little bakery with tasty breads and pastries (try the flaky palm-leaf cookies) and a narrow counter where you can sip fresh-brewed coffee.
La Puerta del Sol (Av 4 btwn Calles 14 & 16; casados ₡2600-3000, mains ₡2400-5000; 8am-midnight) Located downstairs from Los Ángeles Lodge, this pleasant soda has been around since 1957 and serves myriad Tico specialties as well as burgers and sandwiches. Don’t miss the vintage photos of Cartago displayed on the walls.
Self-caterers can find supermarkets in the vicinity of the Parque Central and fresh veggies and other items at the Mercado Central (cnr Av 4 & Calle 1).
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Shopping
Vendors set up in front of the basilica to sell all manner of religious articles. Bazar Mafalda (2552-3592; Av 4 btwn Calles 12 & 14; 9am-5pm), to the west of the church, stocks an interesting selection of rosaries, scapulars and ex-votos – and, rather incongruously, soccer paraphernalia and nail polish. One block to the west is Remembranzos (2553-0005, 8981-9749; remembranzoscr@yahoo.com; Av 4 btwn Calles 10 & 12), a tiny cluttered shop selling vintage coins, stamps, photographs and company scrip from coffee plantations. Hours are erratic, so call ahead.
On the main highway, about 8km west of Cartago in Tres Ríos, you’ll find the massive new Terra Mall (2278-6970;