Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [108]
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
Bus stops are scattered around town. The following buses serve destinations in the area:
Paraíso, for Finca la Flor de Paraíso (Calle 6 btwn Avs 1 & 3) ₡600; 40 minutes; for the finca, take buses labeled Birrisito/La Flor/El Yas.
Paraíso & Lankester Gardens (Calle 6 btwn Avs 1 & 3) ₡500; 20 minutes; departs hourly from 7am to 10pm. For the gardens, ask the driver to drop you off at the turnoff.
Orosi (Calle 6 btwn Avs 1 & 3) ₡400; 40 minutes; departs hourly from 8am to 10pm Monday to Saturday.
San José (Calle 5, north of Av 6) ₡500; 45 minutes; departs every 15 minutes.
Turrialba (Av 3 btwn Calles 8 & 10) ₡600; 1½ hours; departs every 45 minutes from 6am to 10pm weekdays, 8:30am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, 3pm and 5:45pm weekends.
Volcán Irazú (Calle 6 btwn Avs 1 & 3) ₡2000; one hour; the bus originates in San José at 8am, stops in Cartago at about 8:30am and returns from Irazú at 12:30pm. Get there early.
Return to beginning of chapter
PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN IRAZÚ
Looming on the horizon, 19km northeast of Cartago, Irazú, which derives its name from the indigenous word ara-tzu (thunder-point), is the largest and highest (3432m) active volcano in Costa Rica. In 1723, the Spanish governor of the area, Diego de la Haya Fernández, watched helplessly as the volcano unleashed its destruction on the city of Cartago (one of the craters is named in his honor). Since the 18th century, 15 major eruptions have been recorded.
A NATURAL EDUCATION
If you really want to experience the Central Valley’s rural culture, pay a visit to the Finca La Flor de Paraíso (2534-8003; www.la-flor.org) outside of Cartago. This not-for-profit organic farm operated by the Association for the Development of Environmental and Human Consciousness (Asodecah) has a recommended volunteer-work program that will allow you to get your hands dirty on projects related to agriculture, reforestation, animal husbandry and even medicinal-herb cultivation. There is also an onsite Spanish school.
The cost of the volunteer-work programs, including room and board (in simple wood cabins and dormitories), is US$20 daily. Vacationers can arrange day trips (per person US$10) or overnight stays (US$50) – both of which include meals. Family rates are available. Advance reservations are necessary.
The finca is 7km northeast of Paraíso on the road to El Yas. From Cartago, take a La Flor/Birrisito/El Yas bus; get off at the pink church in La Flor. The entrance to the finca is 100m to the south.
One of the most memorable occurred in March of 1963, welcoming visiting US President John F Kennedy with a rain of volcanic ash that blanketed most of the Central Valley (it piled up to a depth of more than 0.5m). During two years’ worth of subsequent activity, agricultural lands northeast of the volcano were devastated, while clogged water-ways flooded the region intermittently. In 1994, Irazú unexpectedly belched a cloud of sulfurous gas, though it quickly quieted down. At the time of writing, the volcano was slumbering peacefully, aside from a few hissing fumaroles (for more information on the mechanics of eruptions, see boxed text).
The national park was established in 1955 to protect 23 sq km around the base of the volcano. The summit is a bare landscape of volcanic-ash craters. The principal crater is 1050m in diameter and 300m deep; the Diego de la Haya Crater is 690m in diameter, 100m deep and contains a small lake; and the smallest, Playa Hermosa Crater, is slowly being colonized by sparse vegetation. There is also a pyroclastic cone, which consists of rocks that were fragmented by volcanic activity.
Return to beginning of chapter
Information & Orientation
There’s a small information center (2551-9398, 2200-5025; park admission US$10, parking ₡600; 8am-3:30pm) and basic cafe but no accommodations or camping