Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [122]
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ARENAL ROUTE
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If you’ve got your own wheels and you’ve got a little time, take the road from Ciudad Quesada to the Arenal area – you are in for one beautiful ride. With the backdrop of Volcán Platanar, the road winding through this green, river-rich agrarian region passes through prosperous, quaint towns bright with bougainvillea. In front of you, if the weather cooperates, the smoking peak of Arenal will loom in the distance.
Past La Fortuna, the paved road (beware of potholes) hugs the north bank of Laguna de Arenal. On either side of the road, up the green slope and down on the lakeside, turnouts and driveways for lovely inns, kooky ersatz Austrian mini-villages, hip coffeehouses and eccentric galleries appear invitingly like pictures in a pop-up book. Scattered in between, you can’t help but notice the scads of real-estate signs offering lots for sale, but the area is bucolic and not overdeveloped, and each stop feels far enough away from the next to give a sense of isolation.
Heading back around the western edge of the lake, you’ll pass through the lakeside Nuevo Arenal and down to the pleasant mountain town of Tilarán before descending back toward the Interamericana. Note that the route is also well served by public transportation.
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CIUDAD QUESADA (SAN CARLOS)
pop 27,300
The official name of this small city is Ciudad Quesada (sometimes abbreviated to ‘Quesada’), but all the locals know it as San Carlos, and local buses often list San Carlos as the destination. It’s long been a bustling ranching and agricultural center, known for its talabaterías (saddle shops), where some of the most intricately crafted leather saddles in Costa Rica are made and sold; a top-quality saddle can cost US$1000. The city is also home to the Feria del Ganado (cattle fair and auction), which is held every April and accompanied by carnival rides and a tope (horse parade).
Although San Carlos is surrounded by pastoral countryside, the city has developed into the commercial center of the region – it’s also gritty and congested, and driving here can be harrowing for the uninitiated driver. Fortunately, there’s no real reason to enter the city, except to either change buses or visit one of the area’s fine hot springs.
As the regional market town, you’ll find plenty of ATMs, internet cafes and groceries and shops around Parque Central.
If you’re not staying at one of the two private hot-springs resorts, you can visit the budget-friendly Aguas Termales de la Marina (2460-1692; admission US$2). The springs, on the outskirts of town, are referred to locally as ‘El Tucanito’ (El Tucano is the name of the most expensive resort in town).
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Sleeping & Eating
There is no shortage of budget hotels and eateries around town. Apart from the plethora of chain restaurants, you’ll find a few decent local spots on or near the park.
Hotel Don Goyo (2460-1780; s/d US$20/30; ) This is the most established hotel in San Carlos proper, and has small, pleasant, salmon-colored rooms with private hot shower. The attached restaurant (mains ₡2300 to ₡5800) is well respected for its high-quality food, including traditional Tico favorites and a good variety of Western dishes. It’s 100m south of Parque Central.
Loma Verde Hotel (2460-1976; s/d incl breakfast US$40/62; ) Located about 2km north of town on the road to Florencia, this hotel is on a hilltop garden with great vistas. It’s popular with Christian retreat groups and features a games room, internet cafe and pretty landscaping. It’s a good, quiet budget option if you just need a place to crash for the evening. All rooms have private bathroom with hot water, air-con and TV. The hotel is well signed from the highway.
Termales del Bosque (2460-4740; www.termalesdelbosque.com; s/d incl breakfast US$62/78; ) Several airy cottages are arranged