Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [123]
Hotel Occidental El Tucano & Spa (2460-0600; http://en.occidentalhotels.com/hotels/ElTucano.asp; d incl breakfast US$104-180; ) This posh Mediterranean-style resort, 8km northeast of Ciudad Quesada, is in primary forest and comes complete with an Italian restaurant, swimming pool, Jacuzzi and sauna, plus various sports facilities ranging from tennis courts to miniature golf. The real draw is the nearby thermal springs, which are tapped into three small warm pools that are perfect for soaking away your ills.
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Getting There & Away
The Terminal Quesada is about 2km from the center of town. Taxis (₡580) and a twice-hourly bus (₡150) make regular runs between town and the terminal. Walking there is fine if you don’t mind hauling your luggage uphill. Popular bus routes (and their bus companies) from Ciudad Quesada:
La Fortuna (Coopatrac) ₡600; 1½ hours; departs 6am, 10:30am, 1pm, 3:30pm, 5:15pm and 6pm.
Los Chiles (Chilsaca) ₡1870; two hours; departs 12 times daily from 5am to 7:15pm.
Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí (Empresarios Guapileños) ₡1250; 2½ hours; departs 4:40am, 6am, 9:15am, 10am, 3pm and 5:30pm.
San José (Autotransportes San Carlos) ₡1800; 2½ hours; 11 departures from 5am to 6pm.
Tilarán (Transportes Tilarán) ₡2600; 4½ hours; departs 6:30am and 4pm.
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LA FORTUNA & AROUND
pop 10,000
The influx of tourism has altered the face, fame and fortunes of this former one-horse town; still, La Fortuna has not quite become just an overdeveloped gateway to Volcán Arenal. It’s true that tour operators have set up shop on every block, and that arriving visitors need to steel themselves for the onslaught of touts and hawkers as they step off their buses, but that’s because tourism drives the local economy. La Fortuna has managed to retain an underlying, small-town sabanero (cowboy) feel to it, with all the bustling action still centered on the attractive church and Parque Central. Stroll beyond the park and you’ll quickly hit dirt roads and mom-and-pop cabinas away from the hustle and traffic flow.
Prior to 1968, La Fortuna was a sleepy agricultural town, 6km from the base of Cerro Arenal (Arenal Hill). However, on the morning of July 29, 1968, Arenal erupted violently after nearly 400 years of dormancy, and buried the small villages of Pueblo Nuevo, San Luís and Tabacón – yes, Tabacón Hot Springs is in fact in the eruption path. Suddenly, like moths to the flame, tourists from around the world started descending on La Fortuna in search of fiery night skies and the inevitable blurry photo.
Since then, La Fortuna has served as the principal gateway for visiting Volcán Arenal, and it’s one of the top destinations for travelers in Costa Rica. The town is well connected by public transport to San José, and many travelers arrive from or head out to Monteverde via the scenic and unusual jeep-boat-jeep transfer. If you have your own transport, however, consider staying at the Arenal Observatory Lodge or in the small town of El Castillo, as you’ll be rewarded with fewer crowds and better views of the lava flows.
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Orientation & Information
Streets in La Fortuna are named, but there are few street signs and most locals will provide better directions using landmarks. The town is centered on the Parque Central plaza, a popular evening hangout for Tico teens.
INTERNET ACCESS
Arenal Rocks Internet (Map; 8854-2898; Av Central; per hr ₡600; 8am-11pm) Located under the Hotel Arenal Carmella.
Ciro Internet Café y Mas (Map;